Soil Temperatures for Peas!

Hey Everyone,

I have had some very good questions in relation to the best time to plant peas.  The key to growing a good set of peas in the spring is to get them up and out of the ground quickly to prevent the seeds from rotting in soils that are both cool and wet.  It is also imperative to get them in the ground early as once daytime temperatures reach into the 80's their production completely shuts down.

Peas take 4 - 5 weeks to germinate at soil temperatures of 40 degrees Fahrenheit, about 13 days at 50 degrees, and just 7 - 10 days when the soil warms to 60 degrees.   They will actually germinate with ground temperatures anywhere from 40 F to 85 F with their optimum falling around 75 F.  We are definitely in the ground temperature range to get them planted, STAT!

Sugar Sprint Snap Pea

For spring planting look for varieties that have a little heat tolerance built in.  Lincoln and Wando are two wonderful old time shelling varieties that do very well in the spring. Plants stand about 30" tall and they bear prolifically being able to take some of the early warm temperatures without shutting down their production.  However, these two varieties do require pro-active preventative maintenance for keeping powdery mildew at bay.  For those who like the snap peas, Sugar Sprint and Super Sugar Snap are wonderful varieties with incredible flavor that have excellent disease resistance to powdery mildew built right in.  My favorite snow pea is Oregon Sugar Pod II.  I cannot say enough good things about this snow pea variety.  The production is incredible as it produces two pods per each node on healthy disease free plants.  I have grown these for years with much success and they do extremely well in our community garden setting.

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

As with most vegetables avoid working with your pea plants when they are wet and try to keep foliage as dry as possible by watering at the base of the plant.  If picking peas in the morning, it is wise to make sure all dew is off the plant first.  These simple steps go a long way in preventing disease.  Decide if you will be pro-active or re-active with your pest protection and keep an eye out for aphids.  These are usually the first pests to arrive in the spring garden and pea plants provide good cover for them.  Compost teas, Actinovate, and AzaMax are wonderful organic approaches for promoting health, preventing disease, and keeping insects at bay.

As a special note - plants in the allium family such as onions, garlic, leeks, and shallots have a tendency to stunt the growth and production of pea plants.  For this reason, it is wise to plant them at the opposite end of the bed.

For those who would like additional information on planting and growing peas a link to Burpee is below for your convenience.  Its information is very straightforward and it contains the proper method for freezing any excess that some may find useful as well.  I have also placed a link to a very nice article on the differences in productivity between different varieties of snow peas.  This is excellent information for those who like getting the most bang for their buck out of their gardens.

http://www.burpee.com/vegetables/peas/all-about-peas-article10250.html - link to a straightforward article from Burpee on growing peas as well as instructions for freezing them after harvest.

http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/snowpeas?page=0,0 - link to a very nice article on snow peas and the differences in productivity between varieties.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Learning a New Technique - Priming Spinach!

Simple canning jar with a sprout screen!

Hey Everyone,

Spinach can be somewhat of a challenge for the spring garden as it is one of the first leafy greens to bolt readily as soon as the days start to lengthen.  The secret to getting the most out of your crop is to get it up and growing as soon as possible.  You want to ensure several cuttings before any spells of warm weather turn it bitter and cause it to set seed.

With the early-unsettled soil temperatures being outside the optimum range for germination, a few tricks up your sleeve will have you eating Popeye's favorite in no time at all. 

The process of "priming" is a technique to hasten germination.  Some seeds have either a germination-inhibiting compound or a very hard seed coat.  Parsley and spinach are two very good examples of each with parsley having the compound present.  In order for spinach to germinate, it takes a substantial amount of time for the seed coat to be softened and worn away by the elements of nature and soil microorganisms.  The ideal range for spinach to germinate is between 60 to 68 degrees (soil temperature) with growth appearing in about 7 to 14 days.  In soils that are below 50 degrees this process can take anywhere from 3 weeks to a month.  If those same soil temperatures rise to over 75 degrees, spinach will have a hard time germinating and most often fails or is spotty at best.

So let's speed things up a bit to enjoy those few extra weeks eating our spinach rather than waiting for it to germinate....................
                                                                                                          Materials Required:

Pre-soaking the seed of a warm season spinach variety!

Canning jar or simple glass - make sure clean and sterile

Screen - a sprout screen, piece of window screen, or even pantyhose works fine

Fresh seed - spinach seed loses viability rapidly in storage - seeds should be less than two years old

Paper towels
Zip-loc snack or sandwich size bag

Dark area with consistent temperature
Small containers for planting/seed starting soil

Directions:  There are a few different methods for priming.  I see the most success with these.

Soak spinach seeds in lukewarm warm water for approximately 6 - 8 hours.  Some gardeners tend to make the mistake of over soaking their seeds, resulting in the killing or drowning of the embryos.  Six to eight hours is a very safe soak time for spinach seed when using this method for priming.  With that being said, Malabar Spinach is a very hard seed and requires either scarification and short-soak or a longer soak time of 24 hours. 

Drain the seeds completely and place between damp paper towels.  Make sure the paper towels are completely damp but not dripping with water in any way.  Excessive water and moisture in the towels can cause the seed to mold.  Fold and place the damp paper towels containing the seeds in a sealed zip-loc bag.  Spinach does require darkness to germinate, so simply place the bag in any dark area where the temperature remains consistently between 60 - 68 degrees.  I love using a cupboard on an inside wall or even the oven with a little note stating "germination in progress" to remind myself not to turn it on.  Yikes, could you imagine!

Tyee F1 Spinach seeds for spring at the onset
of root formation!

Most often within just a day or two, the seeds will start to germinate as shown in the photo to the left.  My first check was at 17 hours after placing in the zip-loc bag to verify the level of dampness was correct.  Already there is evidence of activity showing that I will have a high success rate with the seed and process as well as an early crop of greens to enjoy.  This particular variety is Tyee F1 Hybrid that is a wonderful choice for spring planting.  Not only does it offer excellent disease resistance but it also tends to hold onto its flavor a little longer before bolting when the early heat arrives.  Dark Green Bloomsdale and Space Hybrid are also excellent varieties with good disease resistance for spring planting.  Tyee F1 Hybrid seeds are available at Lowe's and Bloomsdale is readily available at Lowe's and Pikes.  Space Hybrid is usually not available locally; however, it is readily obtainable from large seed suppliers such as Park Seed Company.

It is important once you spot any type of germination activity to begin checking the bag twice per day, remove, and plant any seeds that may have sprouted.  Seed starting mix is the optimum medium; however, if soil temperatures have warmed a bit, they can go directly into the well-prepared bed with some cover.  If planted inside, the general requirements for care in relation to sowing seeds indoors as well as transplanting into the garden will be the same as that for most other young seedlings.  

From pre-soak to seedling in only 6 days!

For those who want to forgo indoor planting, pre-soaked seeds can be held for about a week if you dry completely for a day or two after soaking.  This technique slows the development and formation of new cells inside the seed. Once completely dry, simply place in an airtight container and store somewhere cool and dark. When ready, sow directly into the garden and the seeds should sprout in about five days rather than the normal timeframe required.  The only downside to this alternative method is you will not have the knowledge as to whether or not your seeds are viable and it is possible to lose the window for priming another batch.

There are actually many myths out there regarding the ability of spinach to be transplanted.  I find it transplants as well as anything else given the proper care and conditions.  Spinach can be one of the trickier crops to grow due to it being more finicky with its care and having that very narrow window for planting.  If you have had problems in the past, it may just be a matter of adjusting your planting times a bit; trying one of the priming techniques above, or correcting any adverse soil conditions to bring you guaranteed success. 

Happy Gardening,

Denise
Beds 25 & 29