Photos Before the Big Melt Thursday, 2/13/14, ~11:00 AM

Cut the Pie - Snow Day Style!

Hey Everyone,

 Nothing like a snow day!

There is nothing like a day off school and a fun game to play with the kids while enjoying this unusual snow!  Cut the Pie was always a neighborhood favorite back home when the boys were young.  I thought it might be nice to share since we have so many families in the garden with children.

Ingredients:

Snow
Kids with energy to burn

Directions:

In the snow stomp around in a large circle, about 10 feet in diameter.  Make sure the path is about a foot wide and well packed down.  Then section the circle in half and repeat until your masterpiece resembles an 8-piece pie.

Make sure the children understand they cannot cut through the pie but only travel on the paths you have made.

For the game of tag, the child who is "IT" stands in the center of the pie.  On the word "GO", they must cut the pie and try to catch or tag another child.  The child who is caught or tagged is then "IT" next.

Repeat as necessary to burn off energy!

I also found this pie on Pinterest with slightly different rules that sounds like fun as well.

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/90142430011347347/ - link to a Cut the Pie game on Pinterest with similar rules.

Happy Snow Day,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Memory Lane!

Hey Everyone,

Rick finding it next to impossible to get the ice off!

It's a little funny how some things seem to trigger the memories of life.  Put a little ice and snow together and it sends Rick and me well on our way to reminiscing about the Ohio Blizzard of 1978.  To this day, it is still considered the Storm of the Century for that area.

Much like any other winter forecast it started with the usual.  "Rain tonight, possibly mixed with snow at times.  Windy and cold Thursday with certain snow flurries."  In as little as 15 hours, rain turned to ice and snow as the temperatures dropped from the mid-thirties to the low teens.  Sustained winds between 35 and 40 mph with gusts up to 76 mph took the wind-chill to places even Ohioans never thought possible.  Massive snowdrifts were up over the roof of the family home and "snowed in" took on a completely new meaning.  A little over a foot of snow fell that day on top of sixteen inches from a previous storm earlier that same week.  According to the Ohio Historical Society, over thirty years later, it is still one of the most devastating winter storms on record.

When I look at the man shoveling the snow and ice, though aged and changed in appearance, I still see the neighbor boy from a few doors up walking down to check in on his girlfriend and her family.  The shovel is almost an antique now as we bought it for our first home so long ago.  I treasure this time as taking a snow day with a childhood friend, irritating teenage boy, incredibly thoughtful boyfriend, love of my life, and partner who occasionally drives me nuts, is really not that bad at all.

Stay safe, be warm, and enjoy each other,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Learning a New Technique - Priming Spinach!

Simple canning jar with a sprout screen!

Hey Everyone,

Spinach can be somewhat of a challenge for the spring garden as it is one of the first leafy greens to bolt readily as soon as the days start to lengthen.  The secret to getting the most out of your crop is to get it up and growing as soon as possible.  You want to ensure several cuttings before any spells of warm weather turn it bitter and cause it to set seed.

With the early-unsettled soil temperatures being outside the optimum range for germination, a few tricks up your sleeve will have you eating Popeye's favorite in no time at all. 

The process of "priming" is a technique to hasten germination.  Some seeds have either a germination-inhibiting compound or a very hard seed coat.  Parsley and spinach are two very good examples of each with parsley having the compound present.  In order for spinach to germinate, it takes a substantial amount of time for the seed coat to be softened and worn away by the elements of nature and soil microorganisms.  The ideal range for spinach to germinate is between 60 to 68 degrees (soil temperature) with growth appearing in about 7 to 14 days.  In soils that are below 50 degrees this process can take anywhere from 3 weeks to a month.  If those same soil temperatures rise to over 75 degrees, spinach will have a hard time germinating and most often fails or is spotty at best.

So let's speed things up a bit to enjoy those few extra weeks eating our spinach rather than waiting for it to germinate....................
                                                                                                          Materials Required:

Pre-soaking the seed of a warm season spinach variety!

Canning jar or simple glass - make sure clean and sterile

Screen - a sprout screen, piece of window screen, or even pantyhose works fine

Fresh seed - spinach seed loses viability rapidly in storage - seeds should be less than two years old

Paper towels
Zip-loc snack or sandwich size bag

Dark area with consistent temperature
Small containers for planting/seed starting soil

Directions:  There are a few different methods for priming.  I see the most success with these.

Soak spinach seeds in lukewarm warm water for approximately 6 - 8 hours.  Some gardeners tend to make the mistake of over soaking their seeds, resulting in the killing or drowning of the embryos.  Six to eight hours is a very safe soak time for spinach seed when using this method for priming.  With that being said, Malabar Spinach is a very hard seed and requires either scarification and short-soak or a longer soak time of 24 hours. 

Drain the seeds completely and place between damp paper towels.  Make sure the paper towels are completely damp but not dripping with water in any way.  Excessive water and moisture in the towels can cause the seed to mold.  Fold and place the damp paper towels containing the seeds in a sealed zip-loc bag.  Spinach does require darkness to germinate, so simply place the bag in any dark area where the temperature remains consistently between 60 - 68 degrees.  I love using a cupboard on an inside wall or even the oven with a little note stating "germination in progress" to remind myself not to turn it on.  Yikes, could you imagine!

Tyee F1 Spinach seeds for spring at the onset
of root formation!

Most often within just a day or two, the seeds will start to germinate as shown in the photo to the left.  My first check was at 17 hours after placing in the zip-loc bag to verify the level of dampness was correct.  Already there is evidence of activity showing that I will have a high success rate with the seed and process as well as an early crop of greens to enjoy.  This particular variety is Tyee F1 Hybrid that is a wonderful choice for spring planting.  Not only does it offer excellent disease resistance but it also tends to hold onto its flavor a little longer before bolting when the early heat arrives.  Dark Green Bloomsdale and Space Hybrid are also excellent varieties with good disease resistance for spring planting.  Tyee F1 Hybrid seeds are available at Lowe's and Bloomsdale is readily available at Lowe's and Pikes.  Space Hybrid is usually not available locally; however, it is readily obtainable from large seed suppliers such as Park Seed Company.

It is important once you spot any type of germination activity to begin checking the bag twice per day, remove, and plant any seeds that may have sprouted.  Seed starting mix is the optimum medium; however, if soil temperatures have warmed a bit, they can go directly into the well-prepared bed with some cover.  If planted inside, the general requirements for care in relation to sowing seeds indoors as well as transplanting into the garden will be the same as that for most other young seedlings.  

From pre-soak to seedling in only 6 days!

For those who want to forgo indoor planting, pre-soaked seeds can be held for about a week if you dry completely for a day or two after soaking.  This technique slows the development and formation of new cells inside the seed. Once completely dry, simply place in an airtight container and store somewhere cool and dark. When ready, sow directly into the garden and the seeds should sprout in about five days rather than the normal timeframe required.  The only downside to this alternative method is you will not have the knowledge as to whether or not your seeds are viable and it is possible to lose the window for priming another batch.

There are actually many myths out there regarding the ability of spinach to be transplanted.  I find it transplants as well as anything else given the proper care and conditions.  Spinach can be one of the trickier crops to grow due to it being more finicky with its care and having that very narrow window for planting.  If you have had problems in the past, it may just be a matter of adjusting your planting times a bit; trying one of the priming techniques above, or correcting any adverse soil conditions to bring you guaranteed success. 

Happy Gardening,

Denise
Beds 25 & 29 

Bluebird Trail Walk for Thursday Jan 30 - CANCELLED

Three robins and a red-winged blackbird on the birdbath. A
song sparrow on the ground beneath them.

It isn't often that events are cancelled here because of snow but....the walk scheduled for January 30th at 10:00 am is officially cancelled due to snow. The roads might be semi-passable by Thursday morning but the trails will still be covered in snow.

The next walk will be Monday, Feb 10th at 10:00 am at Green Meadows Preserve on Dallas Highway.

If you have extra time, put out water for the birds. I had lots of visitors all day yesterday during the snow because I had the only unfrozen water around.

Forget Groundhog Day!

Hey Everyone,

Growing up in northeast Ohio the welcome indicator of springs approach was always the American Robin. A small number of the birds overwintered, but for the most part, November marked the calendar for an extended trip south for the winter.  Their pleasant return home in mid-February was a sure sign of winter's end, wrapped with the promise of warmer and less snowy days ahead.  While those over in Punxsutawney waited with anticipation to see what Phil (famous groundhog) had to say, our family had their own more reliable signs of seasons close to transition.  

Welcome to my trees little robin!

Times have changed over the last 20 years since making our move to Georgia.  Our friends and family back home say they now see more and more of the birds overwintering no matter how much the snow flies. According to the National Audubon Society, the numbers of robins remaining home for the winter has increased dramatically.  In the early seventies, you would see tallies of less than 5,000 birds remaining.  Now those same counts are closer to 30,000 birds forgoing their winter trip.                                                                                                             Over the years, many in the area have tried to point the finger as climate change being the mysterious culprit for their slowed migration south.  However, studies have shown that warming temperatures are playing only a minor factor, if any at all.  The true incentive in keeping the robins at home seems to be the increase and takeover of non-native plant species such as the invasive bush honeysuckle.

When the weather turns cold, robins switch their diet to mainly fruits and berries. Hawthorns, ornamental crabapples, and berry-producing shrubs offer a wonderful buffet from which they feast.                                                                                           Unfortunately, over the last few decades non-native bush honeysuckles have become rampant.  They take over much of the forest and produce a bumper crop of berries enticing the birds to stay put for the winter.  The Ohio Division of Wildlife states that the berries produced by these invasive honeysuckles are low in both lipids and proteins.  These nutrients are vital for providing birds with long-term sustenance when facing harsh winters.  If heavy ice or snowstorms prevent the birds from eating, they will not have the stored energy reserves from a high quality diet to ride out prolonged periods of bad weather.  This can bring havoc to the species. 

Over the last several days, hundreds of robins have flocked to the yard feasting on the fruit of the Cleveland Pears and berries of the Savannah Holly trees.  I am all too happy offering a wholesome meal before they make the long trek back to a place once called home.  I hope that the enticement of something high in nutrients will bring them back come next November.  In a life where change is constant there is comfort in knowing that some robins will still make the intelligent choice to fly south for the winter.  Even with snow on the ground, eyes are still drawn to the trees with simple joy found in the quintessential harbinger of spring who holds such a special place in my heart.  Punxsutawney Phil has an important day this weekend, but for those cooped up inside maybe needing an answer early; the cusp of spring is just around the corner.

Enjoy the unusual snow,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29 

Arbor Day Event at Trees Atlanta

The Master Gardeners have been asked to pass along this information about the first Trees Atlanta Arbor Day Event.  Trees Atlanta with the generous support of the City of Atlanta and Atlanta’s Tree Conservation Commission, announces the first Trees Atlanta Georgia Arbor Day Speaker Event with nationally recognized author, Jim Robbins. 

Please read the informative flyer above about the Thursday, February 20th speaker Jim Robbins, author of The Man Who Planted Trees and science writer for The New York Times. This first speaker of 2014 will present an inspirational presentation entitled ‘The Power of Trees And How It Can Help Save the World’.  For more details about Jim’s talk and to register access this link:  http://treesatlanta.givezooks.com/events/trees-atlanta-arbor-day-speaker-event-with-jim-robbins

A brief description from Jim about his talk:

“The things we do know about trees, and the many things we don't -- from their ability to clean up toxic waste to the ways scientists say they connect to the cosmos. Trees heal people, are critical to insects and wildlife as medicine, and, some scientists believe, even have a nervous system that allows them to think, strategize and communicate. Most importantly he explains why trees should be seen as an "ecotechnology" to accomplish a wide range of important functions to heal broken ecosystems and adapt a changing planet.”

Trees Atlanta is thrilled to be hosting Jim Robbins and hopes that you will reserve space to attend the event.  If there is interest in attending, send emails to Green Meadows and we can form a car pool as parking is somewhat limited in the parking lot but street parking is available.

Why Grow From Seed!

Hey Everyone,

Have you ever visited the garden centers and seen plants left wilted and neglected?  Unfortunately, this scenario happens more often than we realize.  Luckily, a clerk comes along with some water; the plants perk back up and then happily find their way to someone's home and garden.  The downside to this all too common picture is most often these water stressed seedlings have the odds already stacked against them.  Many of these plants will be unable to reach their maximum capabilities.  Commonly you will see these plants bolt prematurely, set less fruit, and more readily develop disease and pest problems.  This is also just one example, as there are too many to mention.

These are doing well indoors under a standard shop light
 with high output vegetative growth bulbs.

Strong viable seeds and healthy transplants are paramount for the success of any home garden. Seedlings that have naturally developed roots without the excess use of chemicals are more likely to reach their full potential in your garden with less dependence on fungicides and/or pesticides.  Healthier stock grown under optimum conditions not only sets the stage for success, but also minimizes the risk of introducing soil-borne diseases.  However, you must ensure the use of uncontaminated soil when germinating the seeds yourself.

I have found in starting my own seeds that the world is a playground when it comes to unique varieties to grow.  Instead of purchasing transplants geared for appealing to the masses, varieties are chosen for their historical value, intense flavors and textures, ability to adapt to our climate, and greater disease resistance.  By choosing these varieties wisely, yields often increase giving me an even bigger bang for the buck when getting the most back out of the garden.  I could not imagine a spring without Indiana Amish Lettuce or a summer without a Paul Robeson, Japanese Black Trifle, or Garden Peach Tomato.  They are truly heaven in a plant and never found at the local nurseries.

Elegance Greens from Johnny's Selected Seeds
getting some fresh air!

For those who may be interested in starting their own seeds, there are only a few basic principles involved.  Amy Whitney, a horticulturist from the Cobb County Extension Office teaches a wonderful class on the topic and has one coming up next month.   She is a seasoned gardener with over 20 years of experience and possesses a wealth of expertise and knowledge in this area.  Each class is informative and well worth the time spent attending.  The link below is to her blog with the upcoming dates mentioned.  For those unable to attend classes, all the major seed suppliers have abundant information on their web sites as well, relating to the germination of seeds and the care they require.

http://atlantaveggies.blogspot.com/2014/01/garden-plans-and-events.html - Link to Amy's blog from the Cobb County Extension Office.

In addition, these links will take you to the sowing guides from Botanical Interests.  They are informative charts with proper sowing times for many of the vegetables you may wish to grow.  Now is the proper time for starting many seeds and these charts serve as a useful tool for keeping the endeavor on track.  Most consider April 15th as our last frost date.

https://botanicalinterests.com/img/site_specific/uploads/IndSpgSowGuideVegHerb.pdf - link to the Indoor Spring Sowing Guide for Vegetables & Herbs.

https://botanicalinterests.com/img/site_specific/uploads/OutSpgSowGuideVegHerb.pdf - link to the Outdoor Spring Sowing Guide for Vegetables & Herbs.  This link is for those who prefer directly sowing their seeds into the garden.

Happy Sowing,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Simply Sprouts!

Hey Everyone,

One of our past gardeners has me hooked on growing sprouts.  The quality and freshness they possess is absolutely phenomenal.  Most often, the method of choice, for the simple ease of dishwasher cleanup, is a standard mason jar with a sprout screen.  This method in its simplest form does work extremely well. The only challenge is continuously having enough sprouts on hand.

Most economical way to sprout!

In seeking out some pH neutral pads without salt build-up for the trial of a hydroponic application, this site popped up. Increasing sprout production while continually finding new uses for things already on hand seems rather interesting to try.  The man doing the video, Matt Geschke, does an excellent job at giving simple and thorough instructions.

http://www.suretogrow.com/Sure-to-Grow%E2%84%A2-STG/pads - link to an informative video on how to sprout in an ordinary garden planting tray.  Video appears at the bottom of the web page.

For those who enjoy sprouting, the link below has clear instructions for each type of sprout available as well as a wealth of supplies and recipes.  It is such a pleasant surprise to have something so fresh and economical on hand in the dead of winter.

http://sproutpeople.org/growing-sprouts/sprouting-instructions/ - link to the instructions for sprouting every seed imaginable.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

A Cast of Good Characters!

Hey Everyone,

While many are fighting the cold and flu season, spring fever has hit me like a ton of bricks.  I know it is only the start of January but fever induced moments of purchasing wonderful seed varieties and cultivars without rhyme or reason has struck hard.  Descriptions such as prolific producer, disease resistance, heat tolerance and incredible flavor get me every time.  It's a terrible bug and one can only hope it passes quickly!  Be careful, it may be contagious!

Lettuce varieties chosen for their resistance
to Downy Mildew and Heat.

Who will be the cast of characters for the 2014 growing season?  Who will take the leading role?  Equally exciting, who will receive the best supporting roles in the form of companion plants?  When a moment of strength finally presents itself, much thought will go into proper planning and looking towards seed varieties and cultivars that will perform well under the adverse growing conditions of our zone 7.

The link below is to a web page at Cornell University's Department of Plant Pathology.  If you click on some of the different vegetables to grow, a chart appears showing you varieties that offer the best resistance to disease and physiological disorders.  Choosing resistant varieties when deciding what to plant affords greater success for maintaining a healthy garden, especially in a community garden type-growing environment.  Some of the cultivars listed in these charts will be readily available at local garden centers; however, most do require growth from seed.

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/Tables/TableList.htm - link to the charts at Cornell University offering information on disease resistance and physiological disorders among cultivars.

Similar in size and appearance
to Iron Lady tomato!

Cornell also published an interesting article last March on a newly developed tomato cultivar called Iron Lady.  This particular variety shows great promise at preventing not only both of the blights but septoria leaf spot as well.  By controlling all three of these fungal disorders, any dependence on fungicides is dramatically decreased, if not eliminated.  It has been difficult to obtain any true unbiased reviews on the taste of this variety or the brix content for those that like their tomatoes sweet, but a home trial this year should provide us with first-hand knowledge.  The links to Cornell's article and a nice write up on the cultivar are also below for your convenience.

http://www.news.cornell.edu/stories/2013/03/ready-plant-iron-lady-tomato-punches-out-blights - interesting article on a new blight resistant tomato out of Cornell.  It also contains the link to High Mowing Seeds who carry Iron Lady exclusively.

http://www.greenstar.coop/produce/108-news/983-new-tomato-fights-blight-high-mowing-organic-seeds-releases-qiron-ladyq - link to a nice write up on the Iron Lady tomato.

Similar in size and appearance
to Mountain Magic!

Many of the major seed companies will include traits and characteristics unique to each vegetable written within their descriptions.  For example, this link to Park Seed Company highlights Mountain Magic Hybrid Tomato Seeds.  If you scroll down to the resistance category, you will see it is resistant to both types of blight as well as several others of the common tomato diseases we face.  This makes Mountain Magic a nice variety to choose for planting in the garden.

http://parkseed.com/mountain-magic-hybrid-tomato-seeds/p/52522-PK-P1/ - link to a blight resistant tomato variety from Park Seed Company.

Mountain Magic actually originates from Dr. Randy Gardner, a retired tomato plant breeder out of North Carolina State University. Even while retired he still does amazing plant breeding work in collaboration with Cornell and NCSU and his varieties have been gracing my garden for years.  A link showing his other tomato discoveries is below and most are incredible hybrid performers without sacrificing taste or quality.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/fletcher/staff/rgardner/ - link to Randy Gardner, Ph.D. profile and the tomatoes he has bred.

It is impossible to find a one size fits all when choosing the cast of characters for your garden.  The codes and claims you find on charts, tables, and written descriptions are only indicators for tilting the odds in your favor.  The environmental conditions you set the plant up to face, factors such as how you care for your soil, deal with pests, fertilization practices, as well as weather, are all integral parts of how well that particular plant will thrive and produce.  However, armed with the knowledge on how to choose plants wisely and tilting those odds in our favor should help us all succeed in our gardening endeavors.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Butternut Squash Risotto

Hey Everyone,

Simply Delightful!

With the pre-cut butternut squash readily available in stores, this recipe makes up quite easily.  For the life of me, I cannot remember where the recipe ever came from, but it certainly is a family favorite.  It serves two as a full dinner or makes four to six good size side dishes.

Butternut Squash Risotto

Ingredients:

3 cups vegetable broth

3/4 cup water
3 Tbsp. Bertolli Extra Light Virgin Olive Oil

2 containers of pre-cut butternut squash or two medium butternuts, peeled with the seeds removed and diced into half inch cubes

1 med - large sweet onion, diced

3/4 to 1 cup Arborio rice

1/4 cup and about another half of that, dry white cooking wine

3 Tbsp. freshly chopped chives
1/4 to 1/2 tsp. salt to taste
1/8 to 1/4 tsp. fresh ground pepper to taste

Wedge of Parmesan cheese, shaved
                                                                                                             Directions:

Squash and onion sauteing in olive oil.

Combine broth and water in a medium saucepan.  Bring to a simmer and then reduce heat to low and maintain.

Over medium heat in a large saucepan add olive oil and saute cubed butternut squash and onion.  Cook until the squash becomes tender and the onions start to brown a bit.  It usually takes about 15 to 18 minutes.  

Add the Arborio rice, stir continuously, and cook for about a minute.  Add the white wine and stir constantly until all liquid is absorbed.

Stirring constant and gentle, add a half ladle full of simmering broth and cook until the liquid is absorbed.  Repeat this step several times for about another 15 to 18 minutes. 

Add the simmering broth a little at a time.

The Arborio rice should be creamy-like in appearance and still have that true al dente structure when done.  

Reduce heat, stir in chives, season with salt & pepper, and serve immediately with a garnish of fresh-shaved Parmesan cheese.  See photo above.

A fresh baguette makes a nice compliment for a complete meal.

Hope You Enjoy and 

Best Wishes for a Happy and Healthy New Year,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Stinkhorn Mushrooms

Hey Everyone,

On a recent walk through the garden, these unique stinkhorn mushrooms made a spectacular display of oddity in the old potato bed close to the special needs area.  What a beautiful specimen they were!

Mushroom on the far right is developing a
green slime that attracts flies and
beetles to spread its fungus.

In the home landscape they are rarely much of a problem, however, in the vegetable garden they not only create foul odors but attract many undesirable pests as well.  The excessive rains and constant wet ground have been a catalyst in the formation of these mushrooms.  I have placed a link below for a simple strategy to remove them should they become a problem and spread into your garden beds.

The best advice is to eradicate them while still in the egg-like stage of growth as this affords the best success of easy elimination without the use of fungicides.  As a word of caution, all sites and a horticulturist I spoke with recommend wearing disposable gloves when handling as the odor is very hard to remove from skin tissue.

For those who would like to view other varieties of the stinkhorn mushroom, Walter Reeves has some photos on his site that is also below for your convenience.

The foul odor emitted from these mushrooms is most often
equated to the smell of rotting meat
or a dead animal's carcase.

Links:

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-rid-your-garden-of-stinkhorn-fungus#b - simple straightforward strategy to remove stinkhorns naturally.

http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/stinkhorn-mushroom-identification-and-control/ - link to Walter Reeves post on stinkhorn mushrooms with additional photos.

Happy Gardening and Best Wishes for a Happy and Healthy New Year,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Finding Humor in the Little Things!

Hey Everyone,

Baker Creek  Heirloom Seeds
www.rareseeds.com

I love December!  Much like everyone else, I wait with such anticipation for all the new seed catalogs to arrive.  Oh, you thought I was going to say Christmas didn't you.  Bah, Humbug! 

These two catalogs arrived within a week of each other from one of my favorite heirloom seed companies, Baker Creek.  I hope you find humor in the photo as well.  Christmas is coming up so fast this year that I am thankful to Baker Creek for just pulling out the good stuff to look at!  Santa must have sent me a little time-saver.

Happy Gardening and a Wonderful Holiday Season,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29   

Are Carrot Tops Edible?

Carrots grown by
Kara in Bed 38

Hey Everyone,

Susan asked the best question not long ago, as to whether or not carrot tops were edible.  My mind instantly drew a complete blank.  Zip, zero, nada, nothing came to thought!  As someone who tries to get the most out of what they produce, sadly carrot tops are prime for green matter in the compost pile, or when feeling crafty, an arrangement or two for the kitchen table.  Much thought hasn't really been given as to whether or not they are edible and if so, the best uses for them.

In scouring all the garden references at hand, checking the best go to sites for reliable garden information, etc., nothing much popped up. What a puzzlement Susan's question turned out to be!  Consequently, the great "Google" search was on and the best results came back from searching to see if carrot tops are edible or toxic.

The Results:

It appears the topic of consuming carrot tops is quite controversial on both sides of the equation.  There is much evidence suggesting they are safe to consume in moderation and then some that raises a flag of caution.  Gardeners need to utilize good judgment when adding something debated to their diets.  The following seems to be the largest concerns found on-line; however, they are not substantiated in any of my garden references.

All leafy greens, including carrot tops, contain a small group of toxins called alkaloids.  These toxins are part of a plants natural defense system to prevent it from being totally consumed by predators, such as insects or animals.  Much like any other greens, it is important to rotate and consume in moderation to prevent toxic levels of alkaloid buildup in the system, as over time this can have harmful effects on the thyroid.  

Carrot tops also contain furocoumarins that may lead to contact dermatitis.  Many gardeners can experience this same skin condition when working with celery or parsnips, as they are all members of the same botanical family.  As a test, some sites suggest rubbing the wet leaves of carrot tops on your skin to see if you have any type of allergic reaction.  If a rash or skin sensitivity develop, this should bring caution that you may be somewhat allergic to the tops and therefore pass on consumption.  Supposedly, it is also possible to possess a food allergy or intolerance to the tops of carrots without being allergic to carrots themselves.

The nitrate levels are the last item of major concern when consuming carrot tops.  According to several of the University Extension websites, the levels of nitrates in all plants vary widely based on the conditions of growth and the maturity of the plant when harvested.  Weather, soil acidity (pH), excess fertilization, nutrient deficiencies, herbicide choices, watering practices, etc., all play a part in the levels of nitrates found in your plants.  The book, Nutritional Sciences, states that the root vegetables collect greater concentrations of nitrates due to their growth habit in the soil.  Vegetables that contain the highest levels of nitrates are the root crops, celery, lettuce, spinach, green beans, parsley, cabbage, and collards. Since the by-products of nitrates can have an effect on nitrosamine exposure in the digestive tract (carcinogenic), blood flow, blood pressure, and migraines, it is recommended to consult a health care professional if you have concerns on adding more nitrate rich vegetables to the diet or concerns on the connection between nitrate rich foods and some health conditions.  

Tasty Garden Treats!
Will you be eating the tops Vicki?

In reading several soil references through the years, I have learned that excessive fertilization and some soil practices can lead to toxic levels of undesirable compounds being present in the veggies at harvest time, including nitrates.  After all, our plants are what they eat and even with organic practices, you can overdo.  However, the largest surprise has just come from learning that different varieties hold onto their nitrate levels more readily than others do. As an example, Bloomsdale spinach retains over three and one half times as many more nitrates in its leaves than the smooth leaved variety called Tuftegard.  Therefore, by making simple informed choices when choosing which cultivars to grow, we can tremendously lower the risk of the over consuming nitrates in our diet or nitrosamine exposure for those who may have concerns.

While the choice "to eat or not to eat" will be a topic of discussion for many, I hope you enjoy the post and learning about something new.  Kudos to Susan for bringing us a topic that will help us in getting even more produce out of our gardens.  It would be wonderful to hear what others think about the subject.

The reading is quite interesting and I have placed some links with descriptions below for your convenience.

http://www.carrotmuseum.co.uk/carrotops.html - This is an excellent link with general information and recipes.  The pesto does look interesting!

http://www.gardenbetty.com/2013/07/are-carrot-tops-toxic-the-short-answer-no/ - This is a nice summary of the general information appearing on-line.

http://greenearthorganics.blogspot.com/2013/04/carrot-tops-to-eat-or-to-compost.html - This is a blog post appearing on Green Earth Organics.  It has some links to information on the topic of whether or not they should be considered toxic.

http://www.leafforlife.org/PAGES/LEAFVEG.HTM - Article on Leafy Vegetables and Nitrates by David Kennedy.

http://www.thekitchn.com/5-ways-to-eat-carrot-tops-183415 - Additional recipes for those who are brave enough to try!

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

If Worms Could Talk!

Hey Everyone,

Worm Photo compliments of
Vicki Williams, Bed 41

Although a bit on the quiet side, worms really have a lot to say about your garden.  Imagine if you could hear the details of all that they were telling you and utilize that advice to fine-tune the soil.  All of us know that worms are good for the soil and having them in the garden is a bonus for healthy vegetation. However, they have so much more to say!

If worms could speak, they would tell us to start by taking a simple census of their numbers as a test for overall soil health. They would let us know by simply increasing their numbers; we would see immediate improvements in our soil's texture and capabilities.  Our plants would then become superheroes in the garden, producing food grown with greater nutrient densities, based on what we have fed the worms within our soil.

Organic matter is crucial to growing quality vegetables in raised garden beds.  This is one of the simplest methods found for checking the levels in your soil.  To determine if you have enough organic matter in the soil to sustain good fertility and growth you need to observe the biological community.  The size of the earthworm lends itself to observation as a member of this natural life form.  Performance of this test is possible at any point in the year as long as the ground is not frozen or extremely wet from rainy weather. Humid weather provides the most accurate findings.

Healthy Soil Worm Test:

Many soil guides and references suggest you dig up an area 1 foot in square by 7 inches deep.  Remove this sample and place in a wheelbarrow or shallow container.   Using your hands sift through the sample and count all the earthworms present.  Make sure to include the small ones as well.  If you only find one or two worms, test another area of your garden bed.  A second examination will hopefully bring about better results.  The magic number to hit is 10 or more in a sample.  If you have 10 or more earthworms within a sample (back patting is in order), then there is enough of a presence in your garden to have beneficial effects on the soil and the overall health of your plants.  Simple strategies can bring these numbers up, if need be, and get the soil to optimum levels for better plant health.

Simple Remedies for Low Numbers:

Mating Earthworms by Jackhynes at en.wikipedia
Reproduction occurs on the surface, most often at night!

There is not a need to run to the bait shop and buy wigglers or stake out the compost pile for some new adoptions.  If the soil is not rich in worm activity to start with, it will not be able to support new worm life until the environmental conditions are more conducive.  An initial remedy, as a first-step, is to target the quantity and quality of organic matter that will feed the appetite of an earthworm.   Carbon and nitrogen rich materials are what they enjoy most and it will assist in building the organic matter in the soil and their numbers.  Excellent sources of carbon can be as simple as a bag of chopped leaves mixed with composted cow manure or worm castings, which balance out the carbon material with something rich in nitrogen.  Coffee grounds are an excellent source of matter with carbon to nitrogen ratios that foster the growth of beneficial microbes while feeding the worms.  Although, keep in mind to always add a little extra nitrogen when using coffee grounds since the microbes will need some additional food as well.  Adding good quality compost is another choice that works extremely well.  Each of these additions work at building the optimum levels of organic matter into the soil that in turn supports both the earthworm populations and the microbial activity.

For those who enjoy reading, the link below has an excellent article on Earthworms and Soil Fertility.  It also has some wonderful information on composting in the left-hand links that many will find useful.

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/composting/earthworm-soil-fertility - link to earthworm and soil fertility article.

Barbara Pleasant also wrote a nice article on earthworms for Mother Earth News a few years back and the link is below for those who may enjoy creating easy environments to raise them.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/soil-building-worms.aspx#axzz2mQx5SX29

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Garlic Revisited

Garlic Revisited - Original Post - Let's Talk Garlic - November 2012

Hey Everyone,

Simply Delightful!

November is one of my favorite months of the year.  Along with the joy of having my children home for Thanksgiving and eating the sacrificial bird comes the great satisfaction of growing one of my favorite crops, garlic.  I know, right, stinky fingers, horrible breath, but oh so wonderful flavor.  Much like the difference between a store bought tomato and one that is homegrown, garlic is equal in comparison.

 

Garlic plain and simple is a workhorse, for your body and your garden.  In the garden, garlic is one of the best pest deterrents against aphids and red spider mites.  It is an excellent companion plant to roses, stone fruit, apple & pear trees, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, spinach, and tomatoes.  Garlic is actually known to accumulate sulfur, which is a naturally occurring fungicide that helps prevent disease in the soil and some plants.  The health benefits are tremendous as well and a simple Google search should return an extraordinary amount of good reading.

One of the key factors in deciding where to place your garlic is to keep in mind the longevity it takes to develop in the soil (sometimes up to 8 months depending on variety) and to choose a site well away from your peas and beans.  Studies have shown that garlic planted right next to peas and beans contributes to a decrease in yield and vigor.  I’m not taking any chances here, as this girl loves her garlic and her peas too!  Full sun will be an absolute requirement for robust bulb development and it is important to consider shading other companion plants as garlic two to three feet in height is quite common to see.

 

As far as varieties go, several perform extremely well in our climate.  I have had amazing success with Inchelium Red, Chinese Pink, Susanville, Nootka Rose, and many of the Italian Softnecks, which are among my favorites.  The flavors of these garlic's are simply outstanding and their storage capability is exceptional!  Some people plant the standard variety purchased at the supermarket.

This is more of a personal choice for me not to use these cultivars as I am not comfortable planting anything that has shipped slowly from overseas and been treated with chemicals (growth inhibitors) to prevent sprouting.  Most of the garlic sold in the U.S. comes from either China or Argentina and many garden references will caution against utilizing garlic from these countries as seed stock.  While these bulbs can produce a successful yield, they will be standard run of the mill garlic with a high potential for rot and disease.  If you choose this route, a local Farmers Market with organic garlic may provide a better option.  Fresh, certified disease free, organic untreated seed stock with amazing flavors, is readily available at Hood River Garlic Farm, Boundary Garlic Farm, Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Filaree Farm, Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply, and Territorial Seed Company, just to name a few.  Each offers an array of varieties from which to choose with exceptional characteristics.  Specialty garlic can appear pricey; however, keep in mind you only need to purchase seed stock once, as garlic is one of the easiest crops to be self-sufficient in.
    

Hardneck Garlic from Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply

I have found November to be the sweet spot for planting although many publications list early October through mid-December for our area.  Bulbs planted too early (late September to mid-October) can achieve vast top growth before winter and suffer cold damage as a result.  If the winter is mild, these same bulbs can be larger and acceptable for fresh eating, but will lack the ability to store well due to the higher fall temperatures they experience and the length of time in the ground.  Most of these bulbs also have a higher incidence of disease, as well as split and broken clove skins, translating into inferior quality overall, decreased yield, and rapid dehydration.  This is just my own personal trials here; however, in my research to see what has gone wrong in past years disasters, the theory is vastly supported.

On the other hand, bulbs planted too late in winter (mid-December and past) do not have the opportunity to develop enough root growth before real cold sets in.  These bulbs get off to a much slower start in the spring, resulting in smaller size and an inferior stock for those who want to be self-sufficient and replant their own the following fall.  It is all about November after a couple of hard frosts for me.  Planting approximately six weeks before the ground may freeze affords good root development, some top growth, but only enough so that any winter damage will be minimal, and come spring, they are off with an incredible race to the finish line.  The bulbs are unbelievable with dense cloves, heavy weight, outstanding appearance and flavor, and the storage capabilities are excellent.   Again, this is just my own personal experience!

      

Preparing the bed rich in organic matter
with the addition of bone meal from a non-cow source.

Soil prep is straightforward.  Revitalize the garden bed before planting, as summer heat and watering will have cooked away your organic matter.  Add a 1-2 inch layer of organic compost such as aged animal manure to the top of your bed and turn in well.  Also, keep in mind that you may want to raise the level of dirt in your bed back up to have a nice depth for your garlic to grow well.  Choose a fertilizer based on the specific needs of garlic.    Remember Amy’s class with the NPK numbers, up, down, and all around.  Since garlic forms underground, a higher second number assists in the development of growing bulbs.  I like using organic bone meal from a non-cow source.   The link to the UGA Publication on garlic addresses the specific needs and recommendations.  It is below for your convenience.  

      

When it comes to planting the garlic bulb, it never dies but simply is at rest.  Therefore, it is important not to separate the individual cloves from the mother ship, as it is commonly referred to, or basal plate, until ready to plant.  When separating, keep in mind that garlic does bruise easily and if not careful, this is an early target for fungi and disease.  Even minor bruising may potentially weaken the plants ability to supply the early moisture and nutrients to the young sprout until both the roots and the leaves develop.  Also, try to keep the clove wrappers or skins intact as this is protection in the ground for the young sprouts and will later turn to food as they decompose. 

Silverskin Garlic from
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Individual cloves should be planted 4” to 6” apart in all directions.  It will look somewhat sparse coming up; however, planting any closer will hinder the size of your finished bulb.  Difficult, but one of the best garden lessons learned on this one!  I also plant mine 3” deep (basal plate down, pointed end up) as I find with some of the freeze and thaw we may have, my bulbs seem better protected and I only need a light mulch to conserve moisture.

General maintenance for garlic requires nice even moisture throughout the growing season even in winter.  If garlic is left to completely dry out for any length of time, the finished bulbs will be smaller and irregular.  During the winter, however, be careful not to over-water as you can cause the bulbs to rot or mold.  Speaking of which, if you find any mold on your planting stock, discard those cloves and the ones immediately next to them.  I usually tend to water once a week all winter in my raised garlic beds and only if it has not rained.   As soon as I notice the start of spring growth, I side dress with fertilizer, start a more frequent watering program, and wow they take off!

   

Here is the link to the UGA Publication on garlic that has some excellent resource information on care and maintenance that you may find helpful.  I also like the link to Crystal Organic Farm that uses the same fertilization method I do, other than my addition of a little bone meal at planting time.  I also sometimes dust lightly with wood ashes to prevent fusarium and potential damage by onion maggots. 

   

http://www.caes.uga.edu/Publications/pubDetail.cfm?pk_id=6972&pg=al&ak=G   - Link to UGA Publication on Garlic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cez2hzurdDw – This is an excellent site for basic growing your garlic information and seeing how to separate the cloves.  While these people are small-scale market growers, their fertilization method works extremely well for me.

For those who appreciate further reading, Growing Great Garlic, by Ron England is a wonderful read and an excellent resource to have on hand for those wanting to be self-sufficient in the crop.  It is a go to reference written specifically for organic home growers and small-scale market growers alike. 

I hope you enjoy the topic and if there are any garlic growers in the garden, I would love to hear about the varieties you are planting, timing, successes and failures, and the fertilization methods you are using.  What a great opportunity to learn from each other.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Critter Damage

If you are growing broccoli or cauliflower and see anything like this:


Jim's broccoli this year

You have fallen victim to our fall rodent residents. Last year they only ate cauliflower so Jim and Mike decided to just plant broccoli this year. Well, the little critters have decided they like broccoli just as much as they liked the cauliflower and have now eaten most of Jim's, much of Mike's and started on Amy's as well.


Jim's cauliflower last year

Thursday morning we caught one of the critters that has been eating the broccoli. Now to identify him properly.... I know he has a very long tail with little hairs on it and it the tail was at least as long as the body.  His body is much bigger than little mice that I have encountered previously. I can make a guess as to what I think it is but I don't know enough to say definitely.

Caption The Photo Contest Winners!

Hey Everyone,

Hope you are all staying snugly and warm.  Gosh, it is cold outside.  For our Caption the Photo Contest those who entered certainly made us giggle and smile.  The winners with the best captions are Mike Plumb and Vann Gaskin.

Made from the green waste of prepared food
 and the produce department of Whole Foods Markets!

Your prize is an 8 qt. bag of Farmer D's Biodynamic Blend Organic Compost.  This is an amazing product loaded with an abundance of beneficial micro-organisms to build the soil and we hope you will enjoy its versatility in the garden.  It has the ability for use as a fresh soil amendment, planting aid during transplant, side dressing as a fertilizer, and a favorite, fresh-brewed compost tea.  It is located in the shed with your names on the bag.

We sincerely hope you enjoy and thank you so much for playing.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29
Vicki, Bed 41