Passionate for Melons!

"When one has tasted watermelon he knows what the angels eat," stated by Mark Twain.  

Well, personally I think that Mark was on to something.  Only present day, it should be when one has tasted a homegrown melon.  We're almost born to prefer sweet and nothing beats the joyful experience of cutting into a melon that will have your taste buds doing a happy dance.  Mark's right, it's almost inspirational.  Much like the difference between store bought tomatoes and homegrown ones, melons are quite the same.  Tasting them at their peak, with full ripeness from the vine, is incomparable to anything available commercially.

Sugar Baby Watermelon Vine
10.2 Brix 

The biggest downside to growing melons was often thought to be space constraints. However, with new ideas of trellising the melons up, it now seems to be the decision of choosing which varieties to try.

Good melons to grow are often determined by their sugar content.  Brix ratings or values are an estimate of the sugar to liquid ratio or sweetness of the melon.  Hence, the higher the Brix number, the sweeter the melon.  According to one of my heirloom references, "melons FOR THE PASSIONATE GROWER," the author states that growing anything with a Brix value of 10 or greater, signals an excellent choice for sweetness.  I love this guide from Amy Goldman as it depicts one hundred heirloom melons of all different colors, flavors, textures, and types.  A new project will be to track down seed for growing, in order to experience the nuances of each variety.  How fun!  I've been doing something similar with tomatoes as a hobby and it has been very rewarding.  

Korean Ginkaku F1 Hybrid Melon, white
flesh inside tastes somewhat like a
pear and is remarkably sweet.
Brix rating is often 15 - 16!

Shirley Cole is growing Georgia Rattlesnake over in the accessible bed area, an heirloom dating back to the 1870's that made Georgia famous.  According to the book, it has a Brix of 10+.  This year, I'm excited to try Scaly Bark at the house.  It is also an heirloom from that same period out of Atlanta.  The rind looks like the molted bark of a tree and being so unique in appearance, it has definitely caught my eye.

I thought you might enjoy the link below for an easy on-line resource, as several of these varieties are currently available at the local retailers and we are well within the window for planting.  The index from the Vegetable Research and Extension Center, through Washington State University, shows the Brix rating for many of the choices.  They do show a different guideline than the melon book sited above, but it too looks to be very good advice.

There is also a link below to Ohio State University's Extension Center (Go Bucks!), for those who would enjoy reading about how they use Brix as an indicator of quality in produce.  I have a refractometer (fun toy) if we want to play in the garden when our crops start producing or learn how to tweak the soil for more flavorable produce.

                                                                        Links:

http://agsyst.wsu.edu/watermelonphotos.html - link to the Vegetable Research and Extension Center's Brix chart for watermelons through WSU.

http://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-1650 - link to the OSU fact-sheet on using Brix as an indicator of quality in vegetables.

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

Great tasting vegetables with higher Brix levels correlate directly to well-nourished soil.  Simple steps, such as raising the organic matter content and increasing the microbial life of your soil, through compost teas, will have a direct impact on the flavor and nutrient density of the food you pick.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Getting The Most From Your Garden - Radishes!

Amethyst Radish Pods
in my home garden!

So many times we see plants start to bolt and are saddened by the end of their life cycles.  If only we could enjoy the tastiness of our garden veggies for just a little while longer.  Well when it comes to radishes, I anxiously look forward to any signs of the plant wanting to set seed.

For years, I grew the wonderful Rat Tail radish, which is grown for the big tasty edible pods rather than the tuberous roots.  It has the ability to adapt very well to the intense heat of summer providing good eats all season long.  While I liked the pods well enough, they packed a spicy heat and I tend to like my radishes more on the milder side of things.  After doing a little research, I soon realized that all radish pods were edible and their flavors were as diverse as the roots themselves.  Zlata radishes from Poland, Watermelon radishes from China, Amethyst, and Pink Beauty are among my favorites for their podding abilities and their wonderfully mild flavors.

Podding radishes were actually quite popular during the civil war era but gradually faded from American gardens in the early 1900's.  In the late 1980's and especially in the last few decades more and more are realizing what a workhorse in the garden these plants can be.  As a companion plant, they are invaluable.  Radishes have the ability to lure leaf miners away from spinach and lettuce, flea beetles away from eggplants, and some even say they assist at repelling the dreaded squash vine borer.  While in flower, they attract a wealth of beneficials to your garden, increasing productivity of everything from melons and cucumbers to tomatoes and peppers.

Radish pods past their prime
eating quality!

The roots are delectable in both the spring and fall but rapidly deteriorate in flavor as hot weather approaches.  The intense heat of early summer renders most of them inedible or quite harsh in flavor.  As the plant starts the end of its life cycle (a few weeks past the prime for picking the roots), it flowers, and then follows in a few weeks with numerous amounts of quality pods for eating (formal name is silique).  These pods then enlarge as the seeds swell inside providing tasty treats all summer long.  The key to keeping them producing, is to pick pods while they are young, maintain consistent moisture among the roots, and harvest routinely.  Many also seem to enjoy pickling the pods and this link has a couple recipes for those who are daring!    

http://yougrowgirl.com/pickledradishseedpods/ - link to pickled radish pod recipes

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

Growing radishes for their tasty pods requires very little care. If the soil was amended appropriately before planting, just a little extra starter fertilizer or compost tea will keep them happily producing.  It is possible to use the same spacing of 3" apart in all directions (common recommendation for radishes) and then just thin young roots to a final spacing of six inches.  This gives you the benefit of having something to harvest now and something to harvest later.  The radish root itself can easily reach the size of a hardball and plants often become two feet tall.  All parts of the pod are edible.  Depending upon the variety of radishes chosen, they can require minimal support comparable to a small pepper cage.  Support should be placed while the plant is small. If you allow the pods to become too large, they do get tough, lacking good flavor and texture. Simply pick those off and discard.  New tender pods will shortly follow. 

If you would like to follow along and watch them develop, check out Area 96 in the garden within the coming weeks.  A big thank you goes out to all those helping prep that area and to those who are volunteering to assist in the future.  We truly are a wonderful community!  

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Working On My Night Moves!

Worms mating in Bed 25!

So it's Saturday night and I'm out in the garden working on my night moves (don't laugh, you can learn a wealth of information about your garden by checking it at night) and low and behold I stumbled upon the best photo opportunity ever.  I hope you are able to make this out despite a horrible attempt at making a great photo with less than adequate lighting.

Two worms were mating on top of the soil within the garlic patch. Usually, this is something commonly seen a little later in the spring, but this year our temperatures at night are running somewhat above average (soil temperature is 66 degrees F at close to midnight).  Seeing the soil once again alive after dark is such a reflection of the seasonal change making one quite hopeful for the harvest to come.  It's definitely planting season.

Earthworms play such a vital role in the fertility, health, and productivity of the soil.  They serve as excellent indicators of overall soil condition.  The earthworm, being a superstar underground, has the ability to affect the nutrient-supplying power of your soil.  They take organic matter, ingest and digest it, then excrete casts (worm poop) loaded with nutrients they don't utilize for their own nutrition.  These casts serve as a valuable source of organic fertilizer for vegetative plant growth.  The richness of the casts and the productivity of your soil are then determined by the varied type of diet you feed the worms and the worm populations that are present. Healthy living soil would then provide you with productive, well-fed, healthy, and happy plants.
  
Normally, one would hope not to find any creatures doing the wild thing in the garden so late at night, but these guys are definitely guaranteed a hall pass as well as a little privacy. Night, night, little worms, I'm in awe of all you do!

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

For those who would like to determine if they have worm populations effective enough to support healthy plant growth, we did an article a couple years back with some simple observations you can make and suggestions for increasing worm activity.  Here's the link below for your convenience.  Also, remember you can search the blog for topics of interests as your team has written a wealth of information for you to enjoy.

http://greenmeadowscommunitygarden.blogspot.com/2013/12/if-worms-could-talk.html - link to a previous post on worms.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Eggshells Are'nt Just For The Compost Heap!

Yummy, nothing will
go to waste!

It's no secret that I come from a family that enjoys eggs.  Breakfast or dinner, you make them and I'm there!  Sometimes I wonder if my "love affair" of them is from the flavor of the eggs themselves or the fact that the shells are so useful in the garden.

For many years, they were a mainstay simply for deterring slugs and snails around the lettuce and spinach plants.  Nevertheless, as we grow and learn, they are now a favorite "go to item" for a wealth of other uses as well.

Let's start with some basics.  Calcium is one of the top secondary nutrients that plants need in order to develop strong cellular structures. When plants are deficient, it can show up as anything from blossom end rot on fruiting plants to tip-burn on the lettuces and brassica's.  Some plants can even develop twisted leaves while others will remain stunted as the plants fail to thrive.  Disease pathogens and insects are also much more likely to attack vegetable plants with weakened cell systems according to several extension services.  Simply put, all plants need calcium to remain healthy and some like tomatoes need a little more than others do.  Eggshells are just one of the resources readily available to get plants a nutrient they need in order for them to do well.

Finely crushed eggshells!

It's quite easy to throw eggshells in the compost heap and let the calcium they release nourish the pile as they break down over time. However, if you're anything like me and want a little instant gratification in the garden, at little to no cost, there are many other ways to utilize them.  These are some of my favorites outside of using them in the compost pile:

1. 1. Calcium and Magnesium Fertilizer/Tea - Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and such (the nightshades) all thrive with fertilizers rich in calcium and magnesium.  For an organic boost, boil enough water to fill a 1-gallon jug, add 2 tablespoons of crushed eggshells and 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts.  Let the mixture steep a couple days and strain the eggshells back out. This makes a wonderful foliar feeding early in the morning when the plants stomata (pores) are open.  It is also great as a soil drench, any time of day, which doesn't require you to strain the shells.  If you have hard-boiled some eggs, save the water. Mix 1 cup left over egg water to one gallon hot water (no need to boil) and add the Epsom salts. Shake well and this will be ready to use as soon as the salts dissolve and the mixture cools.
2. Seedlings - Most often, I tend to utilize the compost and worm teas for seedlings with my eggshell bits placed in the pots.  However, the recipe above works very well for supplemental feeding at 1/4 strength.  Some gardeners will actually start their seedlings in used eggshells for the calcium boost.  I have never found this method to be of much use.  For me, it seems as if the containers are too fragile and the plants will readily outgrow their environment.  Instead, whenever potting up, I usually just throw a teaspoonful of shells in the container with a little worm castings and pinch of Epsom salts for good measure. 
3. Planting Hole - One of the best ways to supplement your soil with calcium and trace minerals is to place a handful of eggshells in the planting hole.  Mix these in with other amendments such as compost, worm castings, etc. for a steady supply of food to get plants off to a great start.  While calcium is considered as a secondary nutrient, it does go a long way with the nightshades to keep them healthy during periods of plant stress.  
4. Soil Amendment - If you save your eggshells year round or have a source for supply, they make a wonderful soil amendment.  Because of their high surface area to volume ratio, they decompose rapidly in the soil offering calcium and trace minerals within a very short period.  The smaller you crush the shells before using, the more rapidly they will break down.  It can be hard to find the recommended rate for adding eggshells as a pure soil amendment.  I did find a chart on Grow it Organically.com with some recommendations.  http://www.grow-it-organically.com/organic-calcium-sources.html - link to chart on organic calcium supplements for soil additions and recommended rates.  Eggshells are on the list.   
5. Pest Deterrent - Using crushed eggshells in and around plants is a wonderful way to cut down on slugs, snails, and any other mollusk type pests.  The sharp jagged edges of the shells are usually enough to deter them to other areas outside the garden where the pickings are easier for them to feed.  Between eggshells and beer, you can usually keep these pests at bay without the need for any chemical intervention.    



Rinsed and  heat drying
on the grill!

6. Feeding the Birds - Before and after laying eggs, mother birds need extra calcium in their diets.  To reduce the risk of transferring any salmonella to the birds, either boil your shells or bake them at 250 degrees Fahrenheit for ten to fifteen minutes.  Allow the shells to cool and then add them to your existing feeders.  Many times, I'll mix the shells with whatever I have out for the birds, but other times I like to place a small tray out by itself to watch the robins go wild when they're nesting.  They can't seem to get enough of them.  I've also read before that just mixing the gritty shell bits with birdseed will help all birds digest their food more easily. 

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

There is much information out there, as to whether or not raw eggshells pose a risk of contaminating the soil with salmonella.  According to Food Research International, salmonella, many other fungi, and bacterium's can live in the soil for extended periods and are most likely already present.  This we all pretty much know and by assuming good gardening and proper food hygiene practices, rarely will these bacterium's and fungi ever pose any type of threat.  However, the MSU Extension Service does site that any type of hot composting (temperatures of 140 - 160 degrees F) will kill the salmonella bacteria. 

As far as other uses for shells in the garden, recommendations vary and run from a general rinsing and drying to sanitizing for safety.  I'm always a little OCD and would rather error on the side of caution whenever using the shells.  If throwing them in the compost they are merely rinsed since I trust the process.  For all other uses in the garden, they are treated as if they were going to the birds.  I figure that if they are on top the soil as a pest deterrent and birds get into them, well I would hate for the potential to do any harm. I also go the extra length as a precaution since much of the foliar spraying happens when vegetables are producing on the plants.  This gives me the greatest comfort level of using them safely. 

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Spotlight on Something Unique - White Satin Carrots!

White Satin carrots from
Denise's garden this past April.

It doesn't take much to look at these tender morsels to the right and sum the photo up with one word, YUMMY!  One of my favorite carrots to grow for their outstanding flavor and unique appearance is White Satin.  Very similar in growth to any of the "Nantes" type carrots, this variety performs to perfection in our garden.

History shows carrots as originating in Afghanistan and initially being purple, white, or yellow.  Nature took its course, wild varieties crossbred, and many mutations of colors were born.  During the 15th century Europeans mainly grew the white carrots for cattle feed.  Today we find them hybridized into gourmet varieties and happily at home in many gardens throughout the world.

Without the presence of any pigmentation in their roots, white carrots tend to have a very smooth and rich flavor.  They still contain the desired health promoting substances called phytochemicals, which are the naturally occurring compounds that protect the body against disease.  However, if one were comparing white carrots to their orange counterparts, those with color would have a higher presence of these disease fighting compounds within them.  There is a link below to the World's Healthiest Foods website that has a very nice write up on carrots.  It will have us all saying, "What's Up Doc?"
  

White Satin carrot tops

It can be hard to recognize White Satin for the showstopper it really is, as it appears to look like any other carrot variety when growing.  Strong tops and blunt tips make harvesting from the ground a breeze.  Once pulled, the distinctive white color would have many trying to determine if they planted a carrot or a parsnip due to their similarity in appearance. Nevertheless, after smelling the rich aroma that quickly fills the air and taking a bite, you readily see you have been witness to a little piece of carrot heaven.  

White Satin is easily appreciated for its ability to grow well at Green Meadows without the presence of pest and disease issues in either the spring or fall.  Last winter, with the unexpected weather conditions, it performed the best out of any of the carrots I grew.  Overwintering was easy and as soon as the days lengthened to where the plants could photosynthesize again, they happily finished their growth cycle.  I planted carrot seeds the second and third week of September and they finished their growth the last week of April and the first week of May.    

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

Carrots are one of the crops at Green Meadows that do extremely well with either spring or fall plantings. Rarely do we find any issues with insects or disease although aphids can become a problem if neglected when they strike.  The key to success with their growth is well prepared soil, proper spacing, even moisture, and nutrients rich in potassium and phosphorous.  Keeping nitrogen to a minimum will reduce forking and overly hairy roots.  Both planting alongside something from the allium family or very light dustings with wood ashes are excellent measures for preventing carrot rust flies.  These flies lay their eggs in the top of the soil around your plants.  Upon hatching, the larva, or maggots, tunnel into the soil and then feed on the carrot roots rendering them inedible.  Avoiding any excess moisture at harvest time prevents the roots from cracking.

Most carrots planted this time of year will need to overwinter and finish their growth cycle next spring as the ground temperatures warm, the days lengthen, and the plants have the ability to photosynthesize again.  This makes it important to have a garden plan in place that allows their longevity in the soil with good plant companions.  For those that hope to have some carrots for the fall and winter holidays, choosing an early maturing variety that requires less growth time or baby carrots is your best option.

Links:

The first link below is for those who would like to read about the additional health benefits of carrots.  It will take you to the website of the World's Healthiest Foods, which has a nice article posted.

http://whfoods.org/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=21 - link to the World's Healthiest Foods carrot page

The seeds for this wonderful variety are easy to find and the two sites below usually have them readily available.  I will also have some extra seeds in the shed either this weekend or the first of next week for those who may want to enjoy and try their hand at overwintering.

http://www.territorialseed.com/product/White_Satin_Carrot_Seed/carrot_seed - link to Territorial Seed Company

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7094-white-satin-f1.aspx - link to Johnny's Seed Company

The last link is to Cornell University.  Cornell has one of the most comprehensive charts on the disease resistance of different carrot varieties.  Although White Satin does not have a spot on the list, I have grown them at Green Meadows several times and they continue to surprise me with their amazing production and ease of growth in a difficult environment.

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/Tables/CarrotTable.html - link to disease resistance of different carrot varieties from Cornell University

If anyone needs assistance with how to grow carrots, setting up an environment conducive for them to do well, or the proper way to space and hill, just let us know.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Spotlight on Something Unique - Chinese Red Noodle Beans

Many may remember some of the interesting vegetables we grew last summer and how we toured the garden via the blog spotlighting on those that were unique with our posts.  It was such a nice way to learn about some extraordinary performers and I thought it might be nice to add to our list.

Chinese Red Noodle Beans
grown by
Vann Gaskin of Bed 33

Our first addition is rich in history and comes to us from southern China!  Vann, of Bed 33, not only has the healthiest looking bean plants in the garden but some of the most beautiful to stroll by and take a gander.  Chinese Red Noodle beans are an heirloom variety that is very common to the southern regions of China.  It first came to the America's via Chinese immigrants who were here working on the transcontinental railroads during the 1800's.

Heat tolerant and vigorous are just two of many attributes that come to mind when describing this wonderful pole bean variety.  On observation, it seems as if to take its time setting pods but the wait appears to be well worth the time spent. Once it gets started, the plants are continuously producing pods of the highest quality, which would earn it the rank of an outstanding performer in any gardener's journal.  As an added bonus, this cultivar is highly resistant to the Mexican bean beetle that tends to plague our community garden each year. To date, the plants have not required the need for a fungicide or pesticide treatment to remain healthy.

The distinctive purple-red color brings such plate appeal for something unique in the kitchen as the beans will lose their color when cooked but retain it when sauteed or stir-fried.  They can also be used in any dish that calls for string beans and according to what I have read they lend a wonderful almost nutty flavor to most soups.  For the peak of flavor, it is best to pick the pods before they reach twenty-two inches in length.  Longer lengths will still be edible, however, the flavor tends to fall off and the beans will not be as tender.

In sampling, I stir-fried with freshly pulled garlic and peanut oil and served with some toasted sesame seeds.  The flavor was mild and pleasant with the slightest hint of a mushroom taste.  Although others who have tried say the beans are delicious, they do not taste the hint of mushroom within the flavor. So I guess that boils down to having sensitive taste buds, maybe the garlic variety chosen for the dish (grown with the addition of mushroom compost), or being completely off my rocker, you be the judge, grin!

Several years ago, the Chinese Red Noodle beans as well as several other distinctive varieties were part of a trial performed by the Master Gardener's in Santa Clara County.  Chinese Red Noodle performed very well in the trial and was a favorite for those desiring a rich bean flavor.  The link is below for your convenience as several of the varieties trialed would be worthy of growing within our garden.

https://mastergardeners.org/long-bean-trial-2007 - link to the long bean trial performed by Master Gardeners

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

Choosing varieties that offer resistance to the common diseases and pests issues we face goes a long way in lessening your dependence on the use of fungicides and pesticides.  Chinese Red Noodle beans are a perfect example of an heirloom variety having a natural resistance to the Mexican bean beetle. Many of the yard-long beans offer the same tolerance or resistance to these terrible pests. It's just a matter of choosing your varieties carefully and making their environment conducive for the plants to do well.  Vann has showed us a perfect example of tilting the odds in her favor for a healthy and productive garden by using carefully chosen cultivars.  Kudo's Vann!  If there were a bean award, we would need to give you "Best in Show!"

For those who may be interested in trying their hand at growing these wonderful beans the links are below for your convenience to a couple excellent seed companies that carry them.  In addition, I have also placed the link to the other "Spotlight on Something Unique" articles that show standout performers within the garden. 

http://www.rareseeds.com/chinese-red-noodle-bean/ - link to Baker Creek Seed Company

http://www.southernexposure.com/chinese-red-noodle-asparagus-yardlong-yard-long-bean-4g-p-1064.html - link to Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=968409830075347530#allposts - key in spotlight on something unique in the search bar located in the upper right-hand corner

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Winter Gardening Means Mid-Summer Planning & Planting

The garden is in full swing, beans, cucumbers, and squash out the ears, plants loaded with tomatoes, and peppers well on their way to all developing nicely.  Many are asking what they can plant now for the small areas of real estate still available in their garden.  A second round of many of the summer vegetables is always a possibility; however, I tend to turn my attention to the fall garden..........................

Broccoli improves with flavor when kissed by frost!

I have been pushing parsnips lately as if they were a new drug in town to cure the wintertime blues, due only to the length of time they take to produce a healthy crop.  Several varieties of this carrot family relative can take 16 weeks or more to mature.

Parsnips have never graced my garden in the past and in speaking with some "ole-timers", they insist the flavor is sweeter than carrots in winter soups and stews. We shall see about that one!  According to Wikipedia, they are rich in history and during Roman times, they were actually considered an aphrodisiac. We shall see about that one as well, grin!

All of your broccoli's, brussels, cabbages, cauliflowers, etc. benefit from being transplanted into the garden between 4 and 6 weeks of age.  The proper time for sowing these seeds indoors is now for those who want to grow their fall garden for pennies on the dollar.  Beets, carrots, parsnips, and such do better directly sown and may go in as early as the end of July for those who want to be harvesting by Christmas dinner.

Burpee has a nice link where you key in the zip code for our growing area and the chart comes up for what to start and when.  In addition, I really like the links to the sowing guides from Botanical Interests, as these are quality seeds available locally at Pike's.

http://www.burpee.com/gygg/growingCalendarWithZipCode.jsp?catid=1000&_requestid=103634 - link to the growing calendar at Burpee Seed Company

https://botanicalinterests.com/img/site_specific/uploads/LateSummFallSowingGuide.pdf - link to the late summer and fall sowing guide for vegetables, herbs, and flowers from Botanical Interests

Green Meadows Healthy Garden Tip:

To get the most out of the fall vegetable crops, look for varieties that are resistant to the common diseases and insects we experience in the garden.  For example, Southern Exposure Seed Company carries the Green Glaze Collards that have excellent resistance to the cabbage looper and the cabbage worm.  They also carry the Dwarf Blue Vates Kale that resists yellowing of the leaves due to cold temperatures when winters are more severe than expected.  Anything that can offer resistance to downy mildew is a plus since we find that disease rather common.  Tilting the odds in your favor dramatically increases the success of a healthy vegetable garden with less dependence on the use of fungicides and pesticides.  This is especially important with the fall greens, as they tend to absorb what you spray.

One of the most comprehensive links for finding varieties that are resistant to many of the common vegetable diseases is at Cornell University.  I have placed that link here as well for your convenience.

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/Tables/TableList.htm - link to chart at Cornell for resistant varieties 

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29