Stinkhorn Mushrooms

Hey Everyone,

On a recent walk through the garden, these unique stinkhorn mushrooms made a spectacular display of oddity in the old potato bed close to the special needs area.  What a beautiful specimen they were!

Mushroom on the far right is developing a
green slime that attracts flies and
beetles to spread its fungus.

In the home landscape they are rarely much of a problem, however, in the vegetable garden they not only create foul odors but attract many undesirable pests as well.  The excessive rains and constant wet ground have been a catalyst in the formation of these mushrooms.  I have placed a link below for a simple strategy to remove them should they become a problem and spread into your garden beds.

The best advice is to eradicate them while still in the egg-like stage of growth as this affords the best success of easy elimination without the use of fungicides.  As a word of caution, all sites and a horticulturist I spoke with recommend wearing disposable gloves when handling as the odor is very hard to remove from skin tissue.

For those who would like to view other varieties of the stinkhorn mushroom, Walter Reeves has some photos on his site that is also below for your convenience.

The foul odor emitted from these mushrooms is most often
equated to the smell of rotting meat
or a dead animal's carcase.

Links:

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-rid-your-garden-of-stinkhorn-fungus#b - simple straightforward strategy to remove stinkhorns naturally.

http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/stinkhorn-mushroom-identification-and-control/ - link to Walter Reeves post on stinkhorn mushrooms with additional photos.

Happy Gardening and Best Wishes for a Happy and Healthy New Year,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Finding Humor in the Little Things!

Hey Everyone,

Baker Creek  Heirloom Seeds
www.rareseeds.com

I love December!  Much like everyone else, I wait with such anticipation for all the new seed catalogs to arrive.  Oh, you thought I was going to say Christmas didn't you.  Bah, Humbug! 

These two catalogs arrived within a week of each other from one of my favorite heirloom seed companies, Baker Creek.  I hope you find humor in the photo as well.  Christmas is coming up so fast this year that I am thankful to Baker Creek for just pulling out the good stuff to look at!  Santa must have sent me a little time-saver.

Happy Gardening and a Wonderful Holiday Season,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29   

Are Carrot Tops Edible?

Carrots grown by
Kara in Bed 38

Hey Everyone,

Susan asked the best question not long ago, as to whether or not carrot tops were edible.  My mind instantly drew a complete blank.  Zip, zero, nada, nothing came to thought!  As someone who tries to get the most out of what they produce, sadly carrot tops are prime for green matter in the compost pile, or when feeling crafty, an arrangement or two for the kitchen table.  Much thought hasn't really been given as to whether or not they are edible and if so, the best uses for them.

In scouring all the garden references at hand, checking the best go to sites for reliable garden information, etc., nothing much popped up. What a puzzlement Susan's question turned out to be!  Consequently, the great "Google" search was on and the best results came back from searching to see if carrot tops are edible or toxic.

The Results:

It appears the topic of consuming carrot tops is quite controversial on both sides of the equation.  There is much evidence suggesting they are safe to consume in moderation and then some that raises a flag of caution.  Gardeners need to utilize good judgment when adding something debated to their diets.  The following seems to be the largest concerns found on-line; however, they are not substantiated in any of my garden references.

All leafy greens, including carrot tops, contain a small group of toxins called alkaloids.  These toxins are part of a plants natural defense system to prevent it from being totally consumed by predators, such as insects or animals.  Much like any other greens, it is important to rotate and consume in moderation to prevent toxic levels of alkaloid buildup in the system, as over time this can have harmful effects on the thyroid.  

Carrot tops also contain furocoumarins that may lead to contact dermatitis.  Many gardeners can experience this same skin condition when working with celery or parsnips, as they are all members of the same botanical family.  As a test, some sites suggest rubbing the wet leaves of carrot tops on your skin to see if you have any type of allergic reaction.  If a rash or skin sensitivity develop, this should bring caution that you may be somewhat allergic to the tops and therefore pass on consumption.  Supposedly, it is also possible to possess a food allergy or intolerance to the tops of carrots without being allergic to carrots themselves.

The nitrate levels are the last item of major concern when consuming carrot tops.  According to several of the University Extension websites, the levels of nitrates in all plants vary widely based on the conditions of growth and the maturity of the plant when harvested.  Weather, soil acidity (pH), excess fertilization, nutrient deficiencies, herbicide choices, watering practices, etc., all play a part in the levels of nitrates found in your plants.  The book, Nutritional Sciences, states that the root vegetables collect greater concentrations of nitrates due to their growth habit in the soil.  Vegetables that contain the highest levels of nitrates are the root crops, celery, lettuce, spinach, green beans, parsley, cabbage, and collards. Since the by-products of nitrates can have an effect on nitrosamine exposure in the digestive tract (carcinogenic), blood flow, blood pressure, and migraines, it is recommended to consult a health care professional if you have concerns on adding more nitrate rich vegetables to the diet or concerns on the connection between nitrate rich foods and some health conditions.  

Tasty Garden Treats!
Will you be eating the tops Vicki?

In reading several soil references through the years, I have learned that excessive fertilization and some soil practices can lead to toxic levels of undesirable compounds being present in the veggies at harvest time, including nitrates.  After all, our plants are what they eat and even with organic practices, you can overdo.  However, the largest surprise has just come from learning that different varieties hold onto their nitrate levels more readily than others do. As an example, Bloomsdale spinach retains over three and one half times as many more nitrates in its leaves than the smooth leaved variety called Tuftegard.  Therefore, by making simple informed choices when choosing which cultivars to grow, we can tremendously lower the risk of the over consuming nitrates in our diet or nitrosamine exposure for those who may have concerns.

While the choice "to eat or not to eat" will be a topic of discussion for many, I hope you enjoy the post and learning about something new.  Kudos to Susan for bringing us a topic that will help us in getting even more produce out of our gardens.  It would be wonderful to hear what others think about the subject.

The reading is quite interesting and I have placed some links with descriptions below for your convenience.

http://www.carrotmuseum.co.uk/carrotops.html - This is an excellent link with general information and recipes.  The pesto does look interesting!

http://www.gardenbetty.com/2013/07/are-carrot-tops-toxic-the-short-answer-no/ - This is a nice summary of the general information appearing on-line.

http://greenearthorganics.blogspot.com/2013/04/carrot-tops-to-eat-or-to-compost.html - This is a blog post appearing on Green Earth Organics.  It has some links to information on the topic of whether or not they should be considered toxic.

http://www.leafforlife.org/PAGES/LEAFVEG.HTM - Article on Leafy Vegetables and Nitrates by David Kennedy.

http://www.thekitchn.com/5-ways-to-eat-carrot-tops-183415 - Additional recipes for those who are brave enough to try!

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

If Worms Could Talk!

Hey Everyone,

Worm Photo compliments of
Vicki Williams, Bed 41

Although a bit on the quiet side, worms really have a lot to say about your garden.  Imagine if you could hear the details of all that they were telling you and utilize that advice to fine-tune the soil.  All of us know that worms are good for the soil and having them in the garden is a bonus for healthy vegetation. However, they have so much more to say!

If worms could speak, they would tell us to start by taking a simple census of their numbers as a test for overall soil health. They would let us know by simply increasing their numbers; we would see immediate improvements in our soil's texture and capabilities.  Our plants would then become superheroes in the garden, producing food grown with greater nutrient densities, based on what we have fed the worms within our soil.

Organic matter is crucial to growing quality vegetables in raised garden beds.  This is one of the simplest methods found for checking the levels in your soil.  To determine if you have enough organic matter in the soil to sustain good fertility and growth you need to observe the biological community.  The size of the earthworm lends itself to observation as a member of this natural life form.  Performance of this test is possible at any point in the year as long as the ground is not frozen or extremely wet from rainy weather. Humid weather provides the most accurate findings.

Healthy Soil Worm Test:

Many soil guides and references suggest you dig up an area 1 foot in square by 7 inches deep.  Remove this sample and place in a wheelbarrow or shallow container.   Using your hands sift through the sample and count all the earthworms present.  Make sure to include the small ones as well.  If you only find one or two worms, test another area of your garden bed.  A second examination will hopefully bring about better results.  The magic number to hit is 10 or more in a sample.  If you have 10 or more earthworms within a sample (back patting is in order), then there is enough of a presence in your garden to have beneficial effects on the soil and the overall health of your plants.  Simple strategies can bring these numbers up, if need be, and get the soil to optimum levels for better plant health.

Simple Remedies for Low Numbers:

Mating Earthworms by Jackhynes at en.wikipedia
Reproduction occurs on the surface, most often at night!

There is not a need to run to the bait shop and buy wigglers or stake out the compost pile for some new adoptions.  If the soil is not rich in worm activity to start with, it will not be able to support new worm life until the environmental conditions are more conducive.  An initial remedy, as a first-step, is to target the quantity and quality of organic matter that will feed the appetite of an earthworm.   Carbon and nitrogen rich materials are what they enjoy most and it will assist in building the organic matter in the soil and their numbers.  Excellent sources of carbon can be as simple as a bag of chopped leaves mixed with composted cow manure or worm castings, which balance out the carbon material with something rich in nitrogen.  Coffee grounds are an excellent source of matter with carbon to nitrogen ratios that foster the growth of beneficial microbes while feeding the worms.  Although, keep in mind to always add a little extra nitrogen when using coffee grounds since the microbes will need some additional food as well.  Adding good quality compost is another choice that works extremely well.  Each of these additions work at building the optimum levels of organic matter into the soil that in turn supports both the earthworm populations and the microbial activity.

For those who enjoy reading, the link below has an excellent article on Earthworms and Soil Fertility.  It also has some wonderful information on composting in the left-hand links that many will find useful.

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/composting/earthworm-soil-fertility - link to earthworm and soil fertility article.

Barbara Pleasant also wrote a nice article on earthworms for Mother Earth News a few years back and the link is below for those who may enjoy creating easy environments to raise them.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/soil-building-worms.aspx#axzz2mQx5SX29

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Garlic Revisited

Garlic Revisited - Original Post - Let's Talk Garlic - November 2012

Hey Everyone,

Simply Delightful!

November is one of my favorite months of the year.  Along with the joy of having my children home for Thanksgiving and eating the sacrificial bird comes the great satisfaction of growing one of my favorite crops, garlic.  I know, right, stinky fingers, horrible breath, but oh so wonderful flavor.  Much like the difference between a store bought tomato and one that is homegrown, garlic is equal in comparison.

 

Garlic plain and simple is a workhorse, for your body and your garden.  In the garden, garlic is one of the best pest deterrents against aphids and red spider mites.  It is an excellent companion plant to roses, stone fruit, apple & pear trees, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, spinach, and tomatoes.  Garlic is actually known to accumulate sulfur, which is a naturally occurring fungicide that helps prevent disease in the soil and some plants.  The health benefits are tremendous as well and a simple Google search should return an extraordinary amount of good reading.

One of the key factors in deciding where to place your garlic is to keep in mind the longevity it takes to develop in the soil (sometimes up to 8 months depending on variety) and to choose a site well away from your peas and beans.  Studies have shown that garlic planted right next to peas and beans contributes to a decrease in yield and vigor.  I’m not taking any chances here, as this girl loves her garlic and her peas too!  Full sun will be an absolute requirement for robust bulb development and it is important to consider shading other companion plants as garlic two to three feet in height is quite common to see.

 

As far as varieties go, several perform extremely well in our climate.  I have had amazing success with Inchelium Red, Chinese Pink, Susanville, Nootka Rose, and many of the Italian Softnecks, which are among my favorites.  The flavors of these garlic's are simply outstanding and their storage capability is exceptional!  Some people plant the standard variety purchased at the supermarket.

This is more of a personal choice for me not to use these cultivars as I am not comfortable planting anything that has shipped slowly from overseas and been treated with chemicals (growth inhibitors) to prevent sprouting.  Most of the garlic sold in the U.S. comes from either China or Argentina and many garden references will caution against utilizing garlic from these countries as seed stock.  While these bulbs can produce a successful yield, they will be standard run of the mill garlic with a high potential for rot and disease.  If you choose this route, a local Farmers Market with organic garlic may provide a better option.  Fresh, certified disease free, organic untreated seed stock with amazing flavors, is readily available at Hood River Garlic Farm, Boundary Garlic Farm, Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Filaree Farm, Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply, and Territorial Seed Company, just to name a few.  Each offers an array of varieties from which to choose with exceptional characteristics.  Specialty garlic can appear pricey; however, keep in mind you only need to purchase seed stock once, as garlic is one of the easiest crops to be self-sufficient in.
    

Hardneck Garlic from Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply

I have found November to be the sweet spot for planting although many publications list early October through mid-December for our area.  Bulbs planted too early (late September to mid-October) can achieve vast top growth before winter and suffer cold damage as a result.  If the winter is mild, these same bulbs can be larger and acceptable for fresh eating, but will lack the ability to store well due to the higher fall temperatures they experience and the length of time in the ground.  Most of these bulbs also have a higher incidence of disease, as well as split and broken clove skins, translating into inferior quality overall, decreased yield, and rapid dehydration.  This is just my own personal trials here; however, in my research to see what has gone wrong in past years disasters, the theory is vastly supported.

On the other hand, bulbs planted too late in winter (mid-December and past) do not have the opportunity to develop enough root growth before real cold sets in.  These bulbs get off to a much slower start in the spring, resulting in smaller size and an inferior stock for those who want to be self-sufficient and replant their own the following fall.  It is all about November after a couple of hard frosts for me.  Planting approximately six weeks before the ground may freeze affords good root development, some top growth, but only enough so that any winter damage will be minimal, and come spring, they are off with an incredible race to the finish line.  The bulbs are unbelievable with dense cloves, heavy weight, outstanding appearance and flavor, and the storage capabilities are excellent.   Again, this is just my own personal experience!

      

Preparing the bed rich in organic matter
with the addition of bone meal from a non-cow source.

Soil prep is straightforward.  Revitalize the garden bed before planting, as summer heat and watering will have cooked away your organic matter.  Add a 1-2 inch layer of organic compost such as aged animal manure to the top of your bed and turn in well.  Also, keep in mind that you may want to raise the level of dirt in your bed back up to have a nice depth for your garlic to grow well.  Choose a fertilizer based on the specific needs of garlic.    Remember Amy’s class with the NPK numbers, up, down, and all around.  Since garlic forms underground, a higher second number assists in the development of growing bulbs.  I like using organic bone meal from a non-cow source.   The link to the UGA Publication on garlic addresses the specific needs and recommendations.  It is below for your convenience.  

      

When it comes to planting the garlic bulb, it never dies but simply is at rest.  Therefore, it is important not to separate the individual cloves from the mother ship, as it is commonly referred to, or basal plate, until ready to plant.  When separating, keep in mind that garlic does bruise easily and if not careful, this is an early target for fungi and disease.  Even minor bruising may potentially weaken the plants ability to supply the early moisture and nutrients to the young sprout until both the roots and the leaves develop.  Also, try to keep the clove wrappers or skins intact as this is protection in the ground for the young sprouts and will later turn to food as they decompose. 

Silverskin Garlic from
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Individual cloves should be planted 4” to 6” apart in all directions.  It will look somewhat sparse coming up; however, planting any closer will hinder the size of your finished bulb.  Difficult, but one of the best garden lessons learned on this one!  I also plant mine 3” deep (basal plate down, pointed end up) as I find with some of the freeze and thaw we may have, my bulbs seem better protected and I only need a light mulch to conserve moisture.

General maintenance for garlic requires nice even moisture throughout the growing season even in winter.  If garlic is left to completely dry out for any length of time, the finished bulbs will be smaller and irregular.  During the winter, however, be careful not to over-water as you can cause the bulbs to rot or mold.  Speaking of which, if you find any mold on your planting stock, discard those cloves and the ones immediately next to them.  I usually tend to water once a week all winter in my raised garlic beds and only if it has not rained.   As soon as I notice the start of spring growth, I side dress with fertilizer, start a more frequent watering program, and wow they take off!

   

Here is the link to the UGA Publication on garlic that has some excellent resource information on care and maintenance that you may find helpful.  I also like the link to Crystal Organic Farm that uses the same fertilization method I do, other than my addition of a little bone meal at planting time.  I also sometimes dust lightly with wood ashes to prevent fusarium and potential damage by onion maggots. 

   

http://www.caes.uga.edu/Publications/pubDetail.cfm?pk_id=6972&pg=al&ak=G   - Link to UGA Publication on Garlic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cez2hzurdDw – This is an excellent site for basic growing your garlic information and seeing how to separate the cloves.  While these people are small-scale market growers, their fertilization method works extremely well for me.

For those who appreciate further reading, Growing Great Garlic, by Ron England is a wonderful read and an excellent resource to have on hand for those wanting to be self-sufficient in the crop.  It is a go to reference written specifically for organic home growers and small-scale market growers alike. 

I hope you enjoy the topic and if there are any garlic growers in the garden, I would love to hear about the varieties you are planting, timing, successes and failures, and the fertilization methods you are using.  What a great opportunity to learn from each other.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Critter Damage

If you are growing broccoli or cauliflower and see anything like this:


Jim's broccoli this year

You have fallen victim to our fall rodent residents. Last year they only ate cauliflower so Jim and Mike decided to just plant broccoli this year. Well, the little critters have decided they like broccoli just as much as they liked the cauliflower and have now eaten most of Jim's, much of Mike's and started on Amy's as well.


Jim's cauliflower last year

Thursday morning we caught one of the critters that has been eating the broccoli. Now to identify him properly.... I know he has a very long tail with little hairs on it and it the tail was at least as long as the body.  His body is much bigger than little mice that I have encountered previously. I can make a guess as to what I think it is but I don't know enough to say definitely.

Caption The Photo Contest Winners!

Hey Everyone,

Hope you are all staying snugly and warm.  Gosh, it is cold outside.  For our Caption the Photo Contest those who entered certainly made us giggle and smile.  The winners with the best captions are Mike Plumb and Vann Gaskin.

Made from the green waste of prepared food
 and the produce department of Whole Foods Markets!

Your prize is an 8 qt. bag of Farmer D's Biodynamic Blend Organic Compost.  This is an amazing product loaded with an abundance of beneficial micro-organisms to build the soil and we hope you will enjoy its versatility in the garden.  It has the ability for use as a fresh soil amendment, planting aid during transplant, side dressing as a fertilizer, and a favorite, fresh-brewed compost tea.  It is located in the shed with your names on the bag.

We sincerely hope you enjoy and thank you so much for playing.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29
Vicki, Bed 41

Ghost City

View from the far end of the garden

Close up of the" wagon covers"

The garden looks like a ghostly city right now. That or a wagon train headed west!

Every conceivable kind of structure, material, wrapping method and anchor weight was used Wednesday in preparation for the Deep Freeze we were expecting. (And it did come!)  The wind made it extremely difficult to do anything because by 2:00 pm it was blowing at 15 mph and by 5:00 pm it was going 20 mph. Brrrrr... Even with two people working together it was hard to get anything fastened down.

There were definitely many funny video worthy moments during these adventures!

Special thanks needs to go out to Denise and her husband Rick. They went back to the garden in the deep dark, bitter cold and wind (at 9:00 pm) to make sure everyone was still securely fastened down and hadn't suffered a cover blow out.  That would have been fun TV to watch as well!

Tonight (Weds) we have another Deep Freeze and then just a small freeze for Friday morning. Saturday we'll be able to tell if the lettuce and peas survived or not.  Boo hoo if they didn't since my peas had just started bearing.



View from the picnic table

Sweet Honey Mustard Kale Chips!

Hey Everyone!

Simply Delightful!

I hope that many have had a chance to enjoy the post on kale and are considering growing or enjoying this delightful and healthy green!  It was so exciting to check Bed 29 yesterday and stumble upon the pleasant surprise of some dino kale being ready to harvest.  Although a small bunch, as the plants are just starting to produce, it is the perfect amount for a tasty batch of kale chips.

It is often easy to find a wealth of recipes for the chips that have the traditional salty flair, but the need for something on the sweeter side of things was more to the craving at hand.  This is a wonderful recipe and lends itself well to either dino kale or one of the curly green varieties.

Tuscan or Dino Kale massaged with
 honey & extra-light olive oil

Sweet Honey Mustard Kale Chips

One large bunch fresh harvested kale

1 1/2 tablespoons of your favorite honey

1 tbsp. Bertolli Extra Light Virgin Olive Oil

1/2 tsp. ground dry mustard

1/4 tsp. garlic powder

Fresh ground sea salt to taste

To prepare kale for chips, wash under cold running water. Allow the kale to dry completely on paper towels.  This is a crucial step when preparing chips made from greens.  Kale that is not completely dry results in chips that do not bake evenly.  It can also lead to chips with a soggy texture, lacking all palatable qualities.

While the chips are drying, preheat the oven to 325 degrees.  Many recipes call for baking chips at 400 degrees.  I find that 325 works the best for dino kale and 325 - 350 degrees works the best for the curly green varieties, depending on the size of the torn pieces.

In a medium bowl, mix the honey and olive oil into a smooth paste-like texture.

In a small bowl, mix the ground dry mustard and garlic powder, set aside.

When the kale is completely dry, de-stem with a knife and tear into irregular pieces.  Each piece should be about one and a half inches in size.  Add the prepared kale to the honey and olive oil paste.  Massage thoroughly until all pieces are coated well; their appearance should become shiny green in color.  I wear disposable gloves for this step as it is quite sticky.

Turned and ready for an extra dash of
 dry mustard and garlic powder!

Take one-half of the mustard/garlic powder mix and sprinkle on top of the kale.  Massage again until thoroughly and evenly dispersed.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Place kale chips in a single layer making sure the pieces do not touch.

Place on center rack in oven and bake 7 minutes.  Remove at the 7-minute mark and flip over all chips, again making sure the edges do not touch.

Sprinkle the remaining mustard/garlic powder mix over the warm chips.  Return to oven and bake another 5 - 7 minutes or until desired crispness.  If your pieces are larger than one and a half inches it may take additional time to become crispy in texture.  You want the chips barely beginning to brown as a general rule of thumb.

Transfer to serving dish and sea salt to taste if desired.  A little sea salt goes a long way on kale chips. One or two dashes will do an entire cookie sheet.

One large bunch usually makes two cookie sheets and most often serves four.  Store uneaten chips in an airtight container for no more than a few days.

Hope you enjoy,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Caption the Photo Contest!

Hey Everyone,

                                                                                                                                       Photo #1 - 

We need a caption!

It has been awhile since we have had a guessing game or contest so how about a little fun?   "Caption the Photo Contest" sounds like a plan!  Here is how it works.

Before you are three photos that were taken at Green Meadows Community Garden.  One prize will be awarded for the best caption to each of the pictures appearing in this post.  Simply write your captions, including the photo number, along with your bed number in the post a comment section below.

(i.e. Photo #1 - Is there anything on TV besides the squirrel channel?  Denise, Beds 25 & 29)

          Photo #2 -

I need a caption!

We will choose the best caption for each photo and award a prize to that person during the week of November 10th.
                                                           

Bring your sarcasm, unique wit, and/or a funny bone. Please keep in mind we do have children reading our blog, so any use of profanity is prohibited, deemed inappropriate, and will be excluded from the contest.

Have fun and be sure to enter as often as you like.  All entries must be submitted by November 9th at 5:00 p.m.  You can't win if you don't play.................

                                                                                       Photo #3 -

I need a caption!

If for any reason, you experience difficulty getting your entry on the blog, just let us know and we will be happy to assist.

The contest is open to all gardeners, Green Meadows volunteers, and their immediate family!

Enjoy the competition and as always,

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29
Vicki, Bed 41

Christmas Bell Pepper Seeds

Hey Everyone,

Dave and Diane Ochala of Bed 15 are so kind to share some of the seeds from their unique Christmas Bell Pepper plants.  They are in the shed clearly marked for you to help yourself.  If you haven't had a chance to stroll by their bed and view, the plants are putting on a spectacular show of red and green as they mature.

Saving pepper seeds:

Christmas Bell Pepper

Allow seeds to thoroughly dry on paper towels or a coffee filter for two to three weeks.  Pepper seeds do not require any special type of cleaning. Once dry, they are ready for storage.

On average, pepper seeds will store for 2 - 3 years if they are in airtight containers placed in a cool dark location.

Prior to planting, seeds should be soaked in water held at 125 degrees for about 30 minutes. This will kill any disease contained within the seed.  For experienced gardeners, you may want to replace the water with compost tea and bio-prime on a 12/12 schedule.  This will inoculate the plants with beneficial bacillus, mycorrhizae, and trichoderma fungi.  Plants should be started indoors during late winter, or 8 - 10 weeks before the last frost date.  For our area, that is most often April 15th.

Thanks a bunch for sharing Dave and Diane!

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Medication Disposal Day - Saturday October 26

picture from the CobbLine Newsletter

If you don't subscribe to CobbLine, the weekly eNewsletter that is sent out, you miss out on hearing about important community efforts. This weekend  on Saturday ONLY between 10:00 am and 2:00 pm they are having a Medication Disposal Day.

Everyone needs to weed out and purge medications from time to time - over the counter and prescription as well as vitamins. But how do you properly dispose of them? Tossing them in the trash is unsafe. Flushing them down the toilet is also unsafe and bad for the environment when it gets into the rivers and water table.

The best way to dispose of unwanted medications is take them to one of Cobb County's Medication Disposal Day's. You just drive up and hand it over. You don't even have to get out of the vehicle. The first time I went, I took stuff from my house, my mom's and my sister's.

If you have time this Saturday I hope you take advantage of this opportunity to purge your medicine cabinet in a safe way. 


First Freeze/Frost of the Year

Freeze Warning! Freeze Warning!

If you have baby plants, just put out tender transplants, or even not so tender plants....this post is for YOU!  Time to start checking the weather every day for low temperatures.

Be sure and water well Friday to give your plants as much help as you can before the cold weather. Actually, give them a good drink on Wednesday as well since the low is supposed to be 37 on Thursday morning. The more open and exposed a garden area is, the higher chance of frost. In fact, frost typically occurs when the temperature reaches 34 or 35 degrees at Green Meadows.

Saturday morning the low is predicted to be 29 degrees. Your peppers and tomatoes will definitely freeze to a pulp with no protection so be sure and harvest what you can even if they are green so they will ripen slowly in the house. Lettuce won't hold up well without protection. Neither will your sugar/snow peas which definitely need frost protection. You can try to cover the tomatoes/peppers but it depends on how long it is cold as to whether it will work.

If you have brand new seedlings you definitely need to cover and fix the cover so it doesn't blow off and expose the tender growth. If those tender plants are exposed they will get frost bite or even get killed.

This picture shows several different kind of frost covers that were used Fall of 2012

Below are links to several blog posts explaining how to use different methods of creating/using frost covers.

Vicki's Frost Cover Method

Denise Frost Cover Method

Simplest Type of Frost Cover 

Spotlight on a Superfood - Kale!

Hey Everyone,

Tuscan or Dino Kale grown by
Carol Hanak, Bed 22

Walking through the garden it is easy to spot different cultivars of one of the best superfoods out there, kale. Until the Middle Ages, kale was one of the most commonly grown vegetables in all of Europe with cultivation dating back over 2000 years.  The Dig for Victory campaign during the WW II era highly encouraged the growing of kale as it was easy to bring to harvest and it supplemented many of the important nutrients missing from the diets of those on rations.

Kale is closely related to collards and both are members of the cabbage family.  In fact, kale and collards are actually the primitive headless forms of cabbage.  The splendor of a kale plant is quite diverse and whether a delightful ornamental or tasty edible in the garden, the plants are able to withstand moderate freezes and can tolerate temperatures in the teens before requiring protection from the elements.  However, if hard freezes are sudden, before the plant has had time to adjust to the arrival of harsh weather, it is highly recommended to go ahead and cover.

Red Russian Kale immediately left of the scarecrow
grown by Mike & Sue Plumb, Bed 30

The most popular varieties for the home gardener are Red Russian, Curly Green, and Tuscan or Dino Kale. The Dino Kale is the sweetest and nuttiest of the bunch, with the Curly Green having a tenancy to be somewhat bitter, and the Red Russian falling somewhere in between.  By choosing the smallest leaves to avoid bitterness and allowing the plants to experience cold temperatures, including several frosts, the flavors only improve.  Harvesting after exposure to cold weather and frost ensures that some of the plants starches turn into sugars. Yummy!

For the health conscious, this delightful plant certainly packs a punch and it is easy to see why it tops the charts as one of the world's healthiest and most nutrient rich vegetables.  According to the ANDI (Aggregate Nutrient Density Index) scores, kale shares a three-way tie for being one of the healthiest greens available, outperforming spinach, which places number five on the list.  Per calorie, kale has more iron than beef, more calcium than milk, and 10 times more Vitamin C than spinach.  Heads up Popeye, Olive Oyl is throwing out your spinach and fixing you something even better.

Winterbour or Curly Green Kale
 grown by Vicki Williams in Jane Curry's Bed 2

Scientists have known for years that the high levels of antioxidants found in kale work incredibly well at disarming free radicals before they damage cell membranes and DNA.  In recent years, kale has gained a lot of attention as research now shows its phytonutrients work at a deeper level detoxifying and cleansing the body of harmful compounds.  It also has powerful effects at combating several types of cancer and providing both heart and eye health. Life Extension Magazine (known for publishing sound health information to improve and extend human life) has an excellent article by Stephen Laifer citing the powerful health benefits of kale. It is readily available on their website and is only the tip of the iceberg if you perform a "Google" search for the health benefits of kale.

In doing some research to write this post, kale has amazing value when grown as a staple crop for use in the kitchen.  It is a substitute for spinach in any recipe calling for spinach and utilizing lemon juice when cooking brings out the phytonutrients, further enhancing the health benefits.  It is actually quite versatile and the first link below shows how to tame its bitterness and use it several different ways.  Be careful though, kale chips are downright addicting trust me on this one.  Store newly harvested kale for use as you would fresh cut flowers.  Re-cut the bottom stems and place them in a cup or jar of water.  They will keep 1-2 days on the counter or up to five in the refrigerator.  Just keep in mind, the longer it is stored the more bitter it becomes.

Tuscan or Dino Kale grown by
 Denise Kovacs, Bed 29

I have placed several wonderful links below with descriptions to make navigating easy.  I hope you enjoy learning about something so healthy and easy to grow.  The fall window for direct sowing kale from seed is past; however, transplants are readily available at the local nurseries.  The Dino Kale at Pike's is beautiful and they also have some nice varieties of fresh lettuces currently available. Elrod's also has Curly Green and Dino Kale as of last week.  For those sowing in spring, see me when the time arrives as I have seed available to share.



Superfoods Video, Episode #5:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNqNg1lYsdA - link to one of the best videos on kale.  Currently a favorite on my bookmark's bar!  Shows a variety of ways to prepare, together with some wonderful recipes, including kale pesto.

General Growing Information:

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/kale-an-easy-beginners-guide-to-growing.html?page=3 - link to a basic growing guide for the care and harvest of kale.

http://www.burpee.com/vegetables/kale/all-about-kale-article10234.html - link to Burpee's Kale growing guide.

Science and Health Related:

http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/healthy-eating/health-starts-here/resources-and-tools/top-ten-andi-scores - link to the ANDI scores, kudos to kale!

http://www.lef.org/magazine/mag2008/jul2008_Kale-Cancer-Protection-Healthy-Eye-Heart-Benefits_01.htm  - link to the Life Extension Magazine article on the powerful health benefits of kale for those who enjoy researched based data.

http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=38 - link to the George Mateljan Foundation, which has a nice article on kale as one of the world's healthiest foods, including recipes.  The Poached Eggs over Sauteed Greens has me re-thinking breakfast!

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25&29

Last Night's Rain

Tremendous amount of rain!

Hey Everyone,

We received just under two and one half inches of rain in the gauge last night. 

The garden is extremely beautiful today and the plants all look quite happy!

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Oktoberfest at Green Meadows Today

Green Meadows Community Garden

 is definitely 

having an Oktoberfest today,

Sunday, October 6^th

to celebrate

Our First Annual Oktoberfest

from 4 to 6 p.m.

We’ll have brats, pretzels & pot roast,

plates, utensils and iced tea.

Bring your favorite side dish

or  dessert

and a chair to sit on.

We have door prizes!

You could win a coveted Green Meadows 

Community Garden Water Bottle.

But you have to be here to win.

Never Buy Green Onions Again!

Hey Everyone,

I was checking out some of Larry Hall's gardening videos last evening on You Tube and this is one of the best planting ideas to try.  Some of the free onion sets in the shed would work wonderfully for this application.  The smallest size would be perfect!

Has anyone done this before that he or she could post their results or share any tips?

The first link is to growing green onions repeatedly from the same sets or bunches and the second link is to a video of his progress.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8E8V7mgk4w - Link to Larry's video on growing green onions year round from a single purchase.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AokYz6MLihc - Link to a video on Larry's progress and how well it worked.

I plan to try this in bed 25 experimenting with the white, yellow, and red onion sets.  It will be interesting to see if any one variety works better over another.  I do hope you will stop by and check out the progress!

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Free Onion Sets!

Hey Everyone,

Fall planting season is upon us and I thought it would be nice to share some onion sets.  They are located in the shed and you are more than welcome to help yourself.

Yellow and Red Onion Sets

Here is a nice link to growing onions with planting instructions on page two.  If I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to ask.

http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/onions-growing-guide - link to onion growing guide.

Happy Fall,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

Rejuvenating The Soil For Fall - Garden Soil Rejuvenation - Option 2 of 3

Ready To Go!

Hey Everyone,

Garden Soil Rejuvenation is one of my favorite methods for restoration and maintenance of the garden, especially when disease and pests have been present.  This method is for those that want to build their soil naturally over time, starve pathogens by rotating crops within the bed, keep their gardens actively producing, and protect the integrity of the soil food web by keeping it alive and nourished.  Many gardeners believe that building good soil over time is the key to success for not only growing strong vigorous plants, but also growing vegetables with greater nutrient densities.  This requires almost a commitment of stewardship to the dirt.

Option Number Two:  GARDEN SOIL REJUVENATION

Garden Soil Rejuvenation reduces the amount of disease pathogens in the soil by using high quality organic matter, mulches, crop rotation, and simple compost teas to solve problems.   It is a form of restoration and maintenance that can be of great benefit if done properly.  The process is simple.

• Remove a small portion of soil from the bed, preferably from the diseased area.  This instantly removes a substantial portion of undesirable pathogens.  This soil may be re-used as fill dirt in non-vegetable areas. 
• Remove all plant debris and roots from the bed that can potentially harbor pathogens. Dispose of these properly and do not compost any diseased plant material.  This is also an excellent time to check your soil thoroughly for any undesirable pests and remove as needed. 
• Add a substantial influx of high quality organic matter from as many different sources as possible. Most references will recommend at least five sources for the optimum number to hit. Keep in mind that all commercial compost is the by-product of one industry or another; therefore, you need several different kinds to achieve the diversity of micro-organisms in the soil in order for the good microbes to fight off the bad.  A strong army of beneficial organisms can suppress a small army of harmful ones. Homemade compost is always the best, but in its absence, there are several excellent products out there to utilize.  If memory serves me correctly, Gardens Alive even carries one especially designed for fighting blight pathogens in the soil.
• Mulch all new plantings to provide a ground to plant barrier against disease and to provide food for all the good soil organisms you have just added.
• Rotate all new plantings to starve any remaining pathogens naturally.  Each year you are able to rotate a crop to a different place in your bed affords more protection against the same diseases returning.  As an example, Early Blight starts as a soil-borne pathogen and tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes should not be grown in the same spot next year. One year of rotation is some protection, two years more, and so forth.
• Use compost teas to inoculate the soil and plants as they contain high concentrations of beneficial microbes that will compete with pathogens for food and space.  Teas form protective barriers around the roots of plants and work incredibly well as a barrier on the leaves.  In addition, they have beneficial nutrients that go to work immediately providing food to nourish your plants at any stage of growth.
• Fertilize appropriately.  Remember that organic fertilizers with lower NPK numbers are safer for the soil food web. Avoid over fertilization as this can have an adverse effect by tying up the exact nutrients your plants need to flourish as well as cause herbicide injury.

Pros:  Encouraging soil life in addition to crop rotation is the easiest most dramatic way to improve and solve many garden problems. Enhancing the soil with an influx of organic matter will provide instant results and go a long way to building a foundation for producing healthier plants with greater nutrient densities.  Using this method over time will significantly reduce your pests and disease problems.  Much as you are able to fight off the common cold when your health is at its best, plants are better able to withstand pests and disease pressures when they are at their optimum as well.  

Cons:  The only cons to this method are the additional costs associated with purchasing organic matter.
Most bags of organic matter are priced between $5.00 and $8.00, however, by home composting, buying in bulk, utilizing free coffee grounds and leaves, etc., you are able to reduce your costs significantly.

The links below are for your convenience and contain valuable information from previous posts on prepping garden beds and making simple compost teas.  I do want to mention that the soil recipe used in the linked post is not enough organic matter for the amount of disease many experienced in their gardens.  It is more of a standard prep recipe to build the soil when no disease has been present.  For example, this fall I utilized much the same ingredients but intensified the amounts to add a greater influx of microbes to the bed. The addition of fertilizer remains the same at standard usage rates.

http://greenmeadowscommunitygarden.blogspot.com/2013/03/prepping-garden-beds-for-spring.html - link to prepping garden beds.

http://greenmeadowscommunitygarden.blogspot.com/2013/04/making-worm-tea.html - link to making simple teas.

For anyone who likes to do additional reading, Teaming with Microbes by Jeff Lowenfel & Wayne Lewis is an excellent technical reference on the soil food web and the importance it plays in your garden.

Hope this is of great help,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29

"Stitches" of Green Meadows Preserve

The above three photos are of the Green Meadows Preserve House, Garden and Orchard taken in February, March and September of 2013.  Standing in the same spot, 6 images are 'stitched' together to make each photograph using a wide angle lens, a tripod with both bubble levels level, a remote shutter release, and f16.  (Except I think I forgot the f16 part today and used an f11 for the bottom photo because it's not as crisp.  Whatever . . . that's a lot to remember from six months ago.)  All that's needed are 'stitches' of the leaves turning (Nov.) and snow (Jan. 7th - that's my prediction for the first snow of 2014.)  I wonder if it's possible to do a photo with a full moon lighting the landscape.?.  If you see me out there one night, honk!

My Little Compost Pile Pays Off !

One wheelbarrow of compost = more than $20 of bagged soil!  Next year the payoff will be quadrupled because I've doubled the compost space and both hubby and I swear we'll recycle triple the kitchen waste.

Just think what I could accomplish if I just tried!  Thank you, Dr. G!

Rejuvenating The Soil For Fall - Biofumigation - Option 1 of 3

Hey Everyone,

Well hard to believe the calendar says it's almost September but coupled along with a few of the chiller evenings and we have a sound reminder that fall is just around the corner.  Many are starting to pull the diseased plant material from their gardens and are taking the necessary steps to prepare the soil for a healthier fall harvest.  With the amount of pests and disease, we experienced over the summer, it is more important than ever to take sound steps now for a healthy fall garden.

This is some nice looking soil!

The easiest way to enhance the health and productivity from your garden is to improve the growing medium or your soil.  Whenever disease and pests have been present, it is important to take steps that break the cycle of the problem for future seasons to come. There are actually three options for re-building your bed and putting pests and soil-borne pathogens at bay.  Each of these options have their own pros and cons so decisions should be made on what works the best for you and what you feel the most comfortable with.  As you see the terms in the next few posts to come, please take the time to educate yourself in order to make informed decisions for a healthier garden.

Option Number One:  BIOFUMIGATION

Biofumication is a process whereby commercial farmers use a synthetic chemical fumigant to kill certain types of soil-borne pathogens.  For the organic home gardener this process is adapted with an all-natural alternative called biofumigation.  Biofumigation utilizes the cover crop of Mighty Mustard to release natural glucosinolates into the soil.  The high levels of glucosinolates found in Mighty Mustard are the chemical properties of the plant that make certain members of the brassica family spicy.  These chemical properties are known to mimic synthetic commercial fungicide treatments and destroy several soil borne pathogens. The glucosinolates are also the basis of many commercial pesticides available to large-scale growers.  In addition, cover crops are of great benefit for adding pure organic matter to the soil.

Pros:  When it comes to using cover crops, the pros are plentiful and live up to the claims they tout if kept healthy and disease free.  For small home gardeners cover crops provide a solution in areas where it is difficult to incorporate long-term crop rotation strategies.  By utilizing the different types of cover crops based on your specific needs and keeping the levels of beneficial microorganisms high and productive, your garden will have a chance to flourish even with pathogenic fungi and bacteria present in the soil.  If you choose to forgo the planting of a fall and winter vegetable garden, this may be an excellent option to re-build your soil.

Cons:  The cons are only a few.  The amount of time it takes to grow a cover crop ties up the planting site for an extended time, which can interfere with planting schedules.  Cover crops can turn a garden into a weedy field if ignored, so do expect extra pests for dinner if neglecting your bed.  For example, the Mighty Mustard mentioned above is known to attract flea beetles.  If you do not currently have flea beetles in your bed, this particular cover crop would introduce them to you.  However, it can work to your advantage as a trap crop if using cover crops on one side of a bed only.  Lastly, would be choosing the wrong type of cover crop based on your particular needs.  For example, if you needed a crop to fix nitrogen into the soil and instead choose one that is nutrient scavenging, it may not accomplish what you set out to do.

As a special note, Mighty Mustard is excellent at destroying pathogens & pests from the soil; however, I cannot find the pathogen that causes early blight on any of its lists of diseases kept at bay.

For those that would like to do some additional reading on biofumigation and cover crops, the links below are for your convenience.

http://www.thegrower.com/issues/the-grower/118501009.html - excellent article on biofumigation.

http://www.mightymustard.com/varieties - A link to the line-up of Mighty Mustard varieties.
http://www.mightymustard.com/uses - link to specific uses for each variety.

http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/cover-crop-basics - link to general cover crop information and types.


Johnny's Selected Seeds Company carries a full line of cover crop seeds under the sub-heading of Farm Seed on their website.

Option Two & Three to follow.................

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29