Garlic Revisited

Garlic Revisited - Original Post - Let's Talk Garlic - November 2012

Hey Everyone,

Simply Delightful!

November is one of my favorite months of the year.  Along with the joy of having my children home for Thanksgiving and eating the sacrificial bird comes the great satisfaction of growing one of my favorite crops, garlic.  I know, right, stinky fingers, horrible breath, but oh so wonderful flavor.  Much like the difference between a store bought tomato and one that is homegrown, garlic is equal in comparison.

 

Garlic plain and simple is a workhorse, for your body and your garden.  In the garden, garlic is one of the best pest deterrents against aphids and red spider mites.  It is an excellent companion plant to roses, stone fruit, apple & pear trees, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, spinach, and tomatoes.  Garlic is actually known to accumulate sulfur, which is a naturally occurring fungicide that helps prevent disease in the soil and some plants.  The health benefits are tremendous as well and a simple Google search should return an extraordinary amount of good reading.

One of the key factors in deciding where to place your garlic is to keep in mind the longevity it takes to develop in the soil (sometimes up to 8 months depending on variety) and to choose a site well away from your peas and beans.  Studies have shown that garlic planted right next to peas and beans contributes to a decrease in yield and vigor.  I’m not taking any chances here, as this girl loves her garlic and her peas too!  Full sun will be an absolute requirement for robust bulb development and it is important to consider shading other companion plants as garlic two to three feet in height is quite common to see.

 

As far as varieties go, several perform extremely well in our climate.  I have had amazing success with Inchelium Red, Chinese Pink, Susanville, Nootka Rose, and many of the Italian Softnecks, which are among my favorites.  The flavors of these garlic's are simply outstanding and their storage capability is exceptional!  Some people plant the standard variety purchased at the supermarket.

This is more of a personal choice for me not to use these cultivars as I am not comfortable planting anything that has shipped slowly from overseas and been treated with chemicals (growth inhibitors) to prevent sprouting.  Most of the garlic sold in the U.S. comes from either China or Argentina and many garden references will caution against utilizing garlic from these countries as seed stock.  While these bulbs can produce a successful yield, they will be standard run of the mill garlic with a high potential for rot and disease.  If you choose this route, a local Farmers Market with organic garlic may provide a better option.  Fresh, certified disease free, organic untreated seed stock with amazing flavors, is readily available at Hood River Garlic Farm, Boundary Garlic Farm, Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Filaree Farm, Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply, and Territorial Seed Company, just to name a few.  Each offers an array of varieties from which to choose with exceptional characteristics.  Specialty garlic can appear pricey; however, keep in mind you only need to purchase seed stock once, as garlic is one of the easiest crops to be self-sufficient in.
    

Hardneck Garlic from Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply

I have found November to be the sweet spot for planting although many publications list early October through mid-December for our area.  Bulbs planted too early (late September to mid-October) can achieve vast top growth before winter and suffer cold damage as a result.  If the winter is mild, these same bulbs can be larger and acceptable for fresh eating, but will lack the ability to store well due to the higher fall temperatures they experience and the length of time in the ground.  Most of these bulbs also have a higher incidence of disease, as well as split and broken clove skins, translating into inferior quality overall, decreased yield, and rapid dehydration.  This is just my own personal trials here; however, in my research to see what has gone wrong in past years disasters, the theory is vastly supported.

On the other hand, bulbs planted too late in winter (mid-December and past) do not have the opportunity to develop enough root growth before real cold sets in.  These bulbs get off to a much slower start in the spring, resulting in smaller size and an inferior stock for those who want to be self-sufficient and replant their own the following fall.  It is all about November after a couple of hard frosts for me.  Planting approximately six weeks before the ground may freeze affords good root development, some top growth, but only enough so that any winter damage will be minimal, and come spring, they are off with an incredible race to the finish line.  The bulbs are unbelievable with dense cloves, heavy weight, outstanding appearance and flavor, and the storage capabilities are excellent.   Again, this is just my own personal experience!

      

Preparing the bed rich in organic matter
with the addition of bone meal from a non-cow source.

Soil prep is straightforward.  Revitalize the garden bed before planting, as summer heat and watering will have cooked away your organic matter.  Add a 1-2 inch layer of organic compost such as aged animal manure to the top of your bed and turn in well.  Also, keep in mind that you may want to raise the level of dirt in your bed back up to have a nice depth for your garlic to grow well.  Choose a fertilizer based on the specific needs of garlic.    Remember Amy’s class with the NPK numbers, up, down, and all around.  Since garlic forms underground, a higher second number assists in the development of growing bulbs.  I like using organic bone meal from a non-cow source.   The link to the UGA Publication on garlic addresses the specific needs and recommendations.  It is below for your convenience.  

      

When it comes to planting the garlic bulb, it never dies but simply is at rest.  Therefore, it is important not to separate the individual cloves from the mother ship, as it is commonly referred to, or basal plate, until ready to plant.  When separating, keep in mind that garlic does bruise easily and if not careful, this is an early target for fungi and disease.  Even minor bruising may potentially weaken the plants ability to supply the early moisture and nutrients to the young sprout until both the roots and the leaves develop.  Also, try to keep the clove wrappers or skins intact as this is protection in the ground for the young sprouts and will later turn to food as they decompose. 

Silverskin Garlic from
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Individual cloves should be planted 4” to 6” apart in all directions.  It will look somewhat sparse coming up; however, planting any closer will hinder the size of your finished bulb.  Difficult, but one of the best garden lessons learned on this one!  I also plant mine 3” deep (basal plate down, pointed end up) as I find with some of the freeze and thaw we may have, my bulbs seem better protected and I only need a light mulch to conserve moisture.

General maintenance for garlic requires nice even moisture throughout the growing season even in winter.  If garlic is left to completely dry out for any length of time, the finished bulbs will be smaller and irregular.  During the winter, however, be careful not to over-water as you can cause the bulbs to rot or mold.  Speaking of which, if you find any mold on your planting stock, discard those cloves and the ones immediately next to them.  I usually tend to water once a week all winter in my raised garlic beds and only if it has not rained.   As soon as I notice the start of spring growth, I side dress with fertilizer, start a more frequent watering program, and wow they take off!

   

Here is the link to the UGA Publication on garlic that has some excellent resource information on care and maintenance that you may find helpful.  I also like the link to Crystal Organic Farm that uses the same fertilization method I do, other than my addition of a little bone meal at planting time.  I also sometimes dust lightly with wood ashes to prevent fusarium and potential damage by onion maggots. 

   

http://www.caes.uga.edu/Publications/pubDetail.cfm?pk_id=6972&pg=al&ak=G   - Link to UGA Publication on Garlic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cez2hzurdDw – This is an excellent site for basic growing your garlic information and seeing how to separate the cloves.  While these people are small-scale market growers, their fertilization method works extremely well for me.

For those who appreciate further reading, Growing Great Garlic, by Ron England is a wonderful read and an excellent resource to have on hand for those wanting to be self-sufficient in the crop.  It is a go to reference written specifically for organic home growers and small-scale market growers alike. 

I hope you enjoy the topic and if there are any garlic growers in the garden, I would love to hear about the varieties you are planting, timing, successes and failures, and the fertilization methods you are using.  What a great opportunity to learn from each other.

Happy Gardening,

Denise, Beds 25 & 29